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2016 240 Ballast Setup Question: Valves?

Now, I would love to see what you're doing about the swim platform/rear seat ballast?

Knowing how you roll - you must already have a plan!

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Taking a wait and see approach.
 
FINALLY, placed my order with Wakemakers (ouch - $$$$) and a bunch of ancillary items from knukonceptz and the like.

I also spent the weekend doing some planning and prep work.

Here is the rear wet storage back wall that I will run intake hoses through (red arrow) and may need to cut an access hole (X in a circle) if necessary, but I will also be installing a speaker (5" hole further out), so that might be enough.

View attachment 53223View attachment 53225
View attachment 53224

I also needed to clean up the underseat compartments, especially the port side - move the batteries, charger, and the EPA vapor lock/canister, along with the fuel hose. It kicked my a$$.
Here are some before and after:
Before
View attachment 53226View attachment 53232
View attachment 53231View attachment 53229

And after
View attachment 53233
View attachment 53234

Still need to build a carpeted battery enclosure, but that's pretty strait forward. The worst was relocating the fuel hose and the EPA canister as I needed to modify the bulkhead a bit.

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How did you end up running your plumbing from the mushrooms to the pump. Im finally starting my ballast install. When you drill the hole in the wet storage can you fish a string into the area where the intake mushrooms are or did you have to cut out a access hole behind the seat?
Thanks
John
 
Made a lot of progress today. But don't see the end, yet...
This is a tough project, but I am so glad I decided to tackle it myself. I go slow, and can stop and rethink layouts etc. Tends to happen a lot.

So glad I converted the wet compartments into pump houses! That is the way to go for sure. I will elaborate.
(I'm just licking my wounds, pretty much encrusted myself in fiberglass).

upload_2017-4-15_23-27-55-png.54111
upload_2017-4-15_23-28-19-png.54112

upload_2017-4-15_23-28-53-png.54113
upload_2017-4-15_23-29-18-png.54114

upload_2017-4-15_23-30-3-png.54115
upload_2017-4-15_23-30-38-png.54116
What did
Made a lot of progress today. But don't see the end, yet...
This is a tough project, but I am so glad I decided to tackle it myself. I go slow, and can stop and rethink layouts etc. Tends to happen a lot.

So glad I converted the wet compartments into pump houses! That is the way to go for sure. I will elaborate.
(I'm just licking my wounds, pretty much encrusted myself in fiberglass).

upload_2017-4-15_23-27-55-png.54111
upload_2017-4-15_23-28-19-png.54112

upload_2017-4-15_23-28-53-png.54113
upload_2017-4-15_23-29-18-png.54114

upload_2017-4-15_23-30-3-png.54115
upload_2017-4-15_23-30-38-png.54116
What did you need to install the quick release? I'm looking at doing the same except using a ball valve and t fitting from the starboard side pump to the same location of the quick connect for the gantlin bag.
 
What did

What did you need to install the quick release? I'm looking at doing the same except using a ball valve and t fitting from the starboard side pump to the same location of the quick connect for the gantlin bag.
I stopped using Fatsac "quick connect" connectors and switched to the WakeMakers other quick connectors (flowrite?) which work much better and do not disconnect. I route the hose line from the wet compartment pump
upload_2018-7-1_1-30-44-png.77817


upload_2018-7-1_1-28-40-png.77816


upload_2018-7-1_1-37-22-png.77820


Check out post #293 here:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/custom-swimdeck-ballast-bag-project.14048/page-15

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I see! Thanks! That makes more sense, just coil the hose up and stick it back in the storage by the pump
That's exactly what I do, I have come to strongly dislike the Fatsac quick connect (1/4 turn) connectors as they have a tendency to twist and pop open, usually at the worst time.

My only remaining dilemma is... where to mount the AUX pump switch - for that swim deck pump/line/bag setup... Currently I have it duct-taped to the tower leg, lol. Can't decide where to mount it.

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Hi all. Long time reader, first time poster. I’m about to pull the trigger on a 24 foot boat.
I’ve been agonizing over the cost of a 242X-E series. 2018 holdover with Wakesurf package priced at $76K “Out the door”.
The guidance in this thread points me toward a 2018 Limited S, Dealer Demo boat. It is priced at $61K “Out The Door”, with mooring cover.
I’m thinking these mods are adding up to $2,000 with bags and electronics. That plus a $1,400 Ride Steady, $800 board racks, gets me very close to an X boat, for $65K.

Can somebody give me some feedback on your cost experience?

I’m an amateur boater, skier, boarder, who is getting old enough to want to learn wake surfing. And entertain my 2 young teenage boys.
 
Hi all. Long time reader, first time poster. I’m about to pull the trigger on a 24 foot boat.
I’ve been agonizing over the cost of a 242X-E series. 2018 holdover with Wakesurf package priced at $76K “Out the door”.
The guidance in this thread points me toward a 2018 Limited S, Dealer Demo boat. It is priced at $61K “Out The Door”, with mooring cover.
I’m thinking these mods are adding up to $2,000 with bags and electronics. That plus a $1,400 Ride Steady, $800 board racks, gets me very close to an X boat, for $65K.

Can somebody give me some feedback on your cost experience?

I’m an amateur boater, skier, boarder, who is getting old enough to want to learn wake surfing. And entertain my 2 young teenage boys.
I'd say about $4500.00 for complete ballast, ride steady and wake board/surf racks. That's doing the installation your self
 
I'd say about $4500.00 for complete ballast, ride steady and wake board/surf racks. That's doing the installation your self
YEah, still a bit optimistic, but it depends. Good racks are $400-500 a piece. A full ballast system (pumps, bags, connectors and hoses, custom harnesses and switches) is about 4k for parts from WakeMakers. No install of course. I think @rocknracing paid something like 6k for his ballast installed. Then add RideSteady and Gatlin wedge.

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YEah, still a bit optimistic, but it depends. Good racks are $400-500 a piece. A full ballast system (pumps, bags, connectors and hoses, custom harnesses and switches) is about 4k for parts from WakeMakers. No install of course. I think @rocknracing paid something like 6k for his ballast installed. Then add RideSteady and Gatlin wedge.

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$1459 for 3 pump ballast setup from wakemakers without bags. $1300 Samson wake/surf spinning racks and $1400 ride steady
 
$1459 for 3 pump ballast setup from wakemakers without bags.
I need to find my invoice, I think I hid it from my wife, lol. I got 4 sets. Pumps alone were $300 a piece(?), with custom harnesses, timers, switches, connectors, intakes, and 4 bags including the custom swim deck I know I was way over 3k...
It adds up quickly...

--
 
I need to find my invoice, I think I hid it from my wife, lol. I got 4 sets. Pumps alone were $300 a piece(?), with custom harnesses, timers, switches, connectors, intakes, bags I know I was over 3k...
It adds up quickly...

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Screenshot_20190104-135015_Samsung Internet.jpg
Just ordered my 4th for the swim deck.
 
I was very impressed by the ballast install by @swatski. But, I decided to bite the bullet and buy the 242XE.
I spent a couple of hours with the two choices parked side by side in the dealership.
I was surprised to see the Limited S boat had the fuel tank fill hose directly in the way of the Portside ballast bag.
And the freshwater tank was blocking the Starboard side.
The extended Bimini top (me) and the Drive control (Momma) were big factors.

What the heck, it’s only money, and my teenagers will be gone in the blink of an eye!
 
@swatski, what exactly are you using to secure the bag in the pic below? I've been using a ratchet strap, but its pretty bulky. Whatever you're using here looks much better, if its holding up to the task.
 
@swatski, what exactly are you using to secure the bag in the pic below? I've been using a ratchet strap, but its pretty bulky. Whatever you're using here looks much better, if its holding up to the task.
We have since switched to a regular docking line/rope - tying off of the tower leg and the tow hook.
Blame @jcyamaharider - he taught Kate how to “properly” deep water start. His idea is to go WOT, I think. She likes, but the slim bungee cords do not.

 
Ha. Got it. We start the same way, and I added a couple of factory cleats on each side to use in lieu of the tower leg. The ratchet strap works, I was just making sure you didn't have some sort of flexible titanium Batman rope that I needed also.
 
Ha. Got it. We start the same way, and I added a couple of factory cleats on each side to use in lieu of the tower leg. The ratchet strap works, I was just making sure you didn't have some sort of flexible titanium Batman rope that I needed also.
Well, when we are ballasted and listed to the max that stern cleat drags through water, I like to pop it in so it does not disturb the wake surface. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but anything and everything helps!!!

 
Well, when we are ballasted and listed to the max that stern cleat drags through water, I like to pop it in so it does not disturb the wake surface. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but anything and everything helps!!!

Completely agree. I noticed that as well, and then there was a time I was doing something (I don't remember what) and the rope to the tower was very much in the way. So I used it as an excuse to install these. Great tie points for the transom bag, and useful spots for fenders too.
20180624_114515.jpg
 
Completely agree. I noticed that as well, and then there was a time I was doing something (I don't remember what) and the rope to the tower was very much in the way. So I used it as an excuse to install these. Great tie points for the transom bag, and useful spots for fenders too.
View attachment 92450
Brilliant!!!

(Wait... what? another project?! :cool:... Well, this is going to be worthwhile, I don;t like tying off of the tower leg. )

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@Scottie do you have a link to those cleats? Do they match? Babbitt’s shows $110 each for the actual Yamaha cleat.
 
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