2011 Yamaha AR210 - Click on key turn.

Just bought a used 2011 AR210. A car dealer took it in on trade-in, so they did a run through of it, but they are definitely not knowledgable.

I have had consistent problems with my port engine starting. First, when i turned my key, there is nothing that happened. My neighbor has a 190 and helped my check some of the connections to the starter and magically, the port engine started responding to key turns and starting immediately.

This morning I went out to the boat and neither key would turn, at all. I still haven't figured out why this happened, but the dealer had actually provided with replacement ignition switch assemblies. They mentioned they had to buy the whole assembly to get new black key moldings, but now wondering if they knew something else. Anyways, I replaced both of the assemblies and bam, once again, i am back in business. I took it out and ran it 2-3 hours today.

Then, on my way back in, i could not get my port engine to start again. It was the same engine as last night, but now, instead of 'nothing' happening, I am hearing a 'click'. It sounds like the battery is dead, but the starboard starts every time. It is not repeated clicking, just one, sometimes two clicks on key turn and nothing else happens.

As mentioned, I have replaced the ignition assemblies (also swapped them to see if the new ignition were the issue and it was not), cleaned and tighted battery connections (only has one battery but has a battery switch, thought that was odd), checked throttle in neutral and cleanout hatch killswitches.

What am I missing? Starter? Solenoid? Please give me a cheap/easy answer and I will buy you a beer.

You could always jump the solenoid with a screw driver if you really wanna rule it out (make sure you’re in a well ventilated area). That’s my first thought if you have it start just fine and then not at all. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere anyhow..

Hot2Go said:

You could always jump the solenoid with a screw driver if you really wanna rule it out (make sure you’re in a well ventilated area). That’s my first thought if you have it start just fine and then not at all. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere anyhow..

Click to expand...

I have seen that posted quite a few times. How best to do that (that I won't hurt myself)?

Just make sure you have ahold of the grip end of the screwdriver and connect the two bolts on the solenoid itself with the flathead. Run the blowers and make sure there are no gas fumes since it will create a spark. It should then turnover once you connect the screws. Looked up your solenoid on Partzilla and it doesn’t look as easy as our old MR1 engines were, all I had to do was remove a small access panel on the ECU box to reveal the solenoid bolts. I’m sure you could test the solenoid as well, not sure how to do that but I bet there’s a YouTube video out there for it.

I'm having this exact same problem but it's the starboard side, if I try to start the starboard first it won't start. Turn the key and nothing, do all the normal things to make sure it's not a switch. If I start the port first then I can get the starboard to start after two or three key turns. But once on water and running around we cove. It starts fine after that, it's only after sitting in-between outings that I have the issue. And it's always on the starboard engine. I just need to replace the solenoid

meaningreen said:

I'm having this exact same problem but it's the starboard side, if I try to start the starboard first it won't start. Turn the key and nothing, do all the normal things to make sure it's not a switch. If I start the port first then I can get the starboard to start after two or three key turns. But once on water and running around we cove. It starts fine after that, it's only after sitting in-between outings that I have the issue. And it's always on the starboard engine. I just need to replace the solenoid

Click to expand...

I think my issue has been the battery that the dealer (boat was a trade in to auto dealer) put in had an extremely low cranking amps. I am about to replace it with a true starting battery, but my symptoms were similar to yours. And your scenario even lends itself to it more: that the battery is barely sufficient to start the engines and it needs time on the alternator to get it started. After running, it does alright. I would check your battery cranking amps and see if it is sufficient (mine was 575). I will update you if my new starting battery is more reliable.

The only thing I don't understand in each of our setups is why is one engine usually able to crank, while the other one usually doesn't. You would think they would be near identical.

Still completely possible I am on the wrong path on this.

I replaced my battery last year and keep it on a maintainer when not being used. Who knows could be the battery. I also didn't have the problem the entire time I was at the lake on the 4th of July weekend.

If you turn the key and nothing happens (no click, no spin of starter), then your first suspect should be the cutoff switches in the wet storage area, where the cleanout ports are. Those are notorious for getting out of adjustment (it is just a little screw to make them go up/down). When they are just barely out, you will get inconsistent results depending on jigging of the hatch. Some people put a nickel on the hatch to make sure they are pushed all the way, but really the simple adjustment should do it.

If you turn the key and get clicks, that is typically a weak battery (the click is the solenoid activating, but then there is not enough juice to turn the motor, the battery drains and the solenoid de-energizes; battery recovers a little, then click on activate, click on de-energize, etc.). Put a jump box on it and see if it doesn't start. Jumping the solenoid as above can test, too, if you suspect that the problem may be the switch or a problem in the wiring (but usually it is a weak battery...). You can also yank the battery and take it to your local auto parts store, where they usually have a load tester.