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Anyone ever used HDPE 2x6 (boards made from recyclied plastic) for bunk board replacement? It's supposed to be stronger than wood and should last as it won't rot. Anyone ever replace their bunks for rollers?
I looked into composite wood a couple years ago, when I replaced the bunks on my trailer. The problem with composite wood is the linear strength isn't what real wood is. Imagine setting up two sawhorses, 8' apart, and spanning them with each product. The composite products will sag more than wood when weight is applied between the sawhorses. As my memory goes, there is a company that has aluminum "boards" with composite skids, but they're pretty pricey, and I can't remember the name.
Rollers are the wrong choice on these fiberglass hulls. Some need rollers for special landing instances, but they are not recommended for these hulls, as the even support of bunks is so much better.
Thanks I wasn't aware of that. The current bunks seem to be a full 2x6 not a 1 1/2 x 5 1/2. Will a 1 1/2 x 5 1/2 be strong enough to support these boats. I've never seen a full 2x6 in PT.
Great for PWC or Boat trailers. Beveled / Beveled edges to reduce wear and tear on carpet and boat. Quantity: (2) Boards. I will do my best to give you an accurate photo color to view, but monitors are set individually and colors shades do vary slightly.
Have a 2014 Shorelander 19ft trailer that I am replacing the bunks on, have 2x6 PT lumber and CE Smith bunk carpet, what do I need for staples and bolts for attaching the brackets to the boards and the brackets to the trailer? Thanks in advance
Each trailer is different, but you should be able to re-use all hardware. My MFI trailer actually used short lag bolts directly through the brackets and into the wood. Deep enough to grab, but not too deep as to go through. I laid the bunks on the brackets while on the trailer, pre-drilled and ran the lags in with an impact. Easy.
Staples should be stainless, to help keep the rust off. Nothing special. An air stapler, or electric is helpful for sure. Be sure they are long enough to get through all the carpet and into the wood.
Each trailer is different, but you should be able to re-use all hardware. My MFI trailer actually used short lag bolts directly through the brackets and into the wood. Deep enough to grab, but not too deep as to go through. I laid the bunks on the brackets while on the trailer, pre-drilled and ran the lags in with an impact. Easy.
Staples should be stainless, to help keep the rust off. Nothing special. An air stapler, or electric is helpful for sure. Be sure they are long enough to get through all the carpet and into the wood.