2010 242 limited S oil cooler replacement

[Tom_W]

Well finally happened. The port engine dumped its oil onto the bottom of the boat. Having read all the threads I'm not going to mess around and will replace both oil coolers. Looking at this part: 2010 Yamaha 242 LIMITED S (SXT1800GJ) Oil Cooler | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Am i going to need to order the connecting bolts separately? New gaskets? O-rings? It's not very clear what included in the oil assembly. Also I note that item #9 the bolt that keeps sheering is not a replacement part number - but the oil cooler assemble itself is a replacement part number?

 

[Scottintexas]

Glad to have you on board, sorry I don't have a good answer for your question,

Had you been monitoring the bolt or seen any oil drip or was the catastrophic failure the first indication?

 

[Tom_W]

Nope. I was happily ignorant of the entire issue. Until I got a low oil pressure alarm. And so with a little searching, I came here. And it sounds like a big issue with the 2010's.

 

[alex-p]

Well finally happened. The port engine dumped its oil onto the bottom of the boat. Having read all the threads I'm not going to mess around and will replace both oil coolers. Looking at this part: 2010 Yamaha 242 LIMITED S (SXT1800GJ) Oil Cooler | Yamaha Sports Plaza

Am i going to need to order the connecting bolts separately? New gaskets? O-rings? It's not very clear what included in the oil assembly. Also I note that item #9 the bolt that keeps sheering is not a replacement part number - but the oil cooler assemble itself is a replacement part number?

I'm having the same issue,the dealer ask me $2700 to fix it.
They say, should call the manufacture, to get it replaced or pay for it. only 220 hours on the boat.
did you find out if you need to order new gasket,O-rings?

 

[Tom_W]

Just finished the job. Since the boat is at my other house, i ordered the entire oil cooler assembly from babbitts, and all the bolts and rings, etc. (they were cheap compared to the oil cooler)

Oil Cooler Assy Options: Old Sku: 6BH-13470-00-00 Item #6BH-13470-21-00

$662.81​

1​

$662.81​

Marine Grease Size: 10 OZ Item #ACC-GREAS-10-CT	$7.90​	1​	$7.90​
	Yamashield™ Size: 12 OZ Item #ACC-YAMSH-LD-00	$9.49​	1​	$9.49​
	10W-40 Mineral 4W Watercraft Engine Oil Size: GALLON Item #LUB-10W40-WV-04	$20.99​	1​	$20.99​
	10W-40 Mineral 4W Watercraft Engine Oil Size: QUART Item #LUB-10W40-WV-12	$5.99​	2​	$11.98​
	Element Assy, Oil Cleaner Options: Old Sku: 69J-13440-01-00 Item #69J-13440-03-00	$16.79​	2​	$33.58​
	Oil Cooler Assy Options: Old Sku: 6BH-13470-00-00 Item #6BH-13470-21-00	$662.81​	1​	$662.81​
	Bolt, Union Item #6S5-12858-00-00	$11.67​	1​	$11.67​
	. .Bolt, Flange Item #90105-06185-00	$2.95​	2​	$5.90​
	Bolt, Flange Item #90105-08169-00	$2.95​	2​	$5.90​
	Bolt, Flange Item #90105-08170-00	$2.95​	1​	$2.95​
	O-Ring Item #93210-18322-00	$2.95​	4​	$11.80​

Upon inspection - sure enough - bolt three had snapped off with the threads remaining in the old oil cooler. Took about 3 hours to replace the oil cooler. If i did it again, i could do it in maybe 1 hour. Get three small hose clamps and don't bother trying to re-use the old spring clamps - mine were rusty aways. I was able to re-use the o rings etc. The bottom oil hose is kinda a bitch, very short and you are working in the blind to put it back on. Getting it off by prying with a screw driver is where you trash the old spring clamp. Also figured out that a bolt head will fit into the oil filter threaded fitment (it has like a 11 or 12 metric allen in the center) and the biggest allen at the hardware store was a 10mm and that was a little too loose. Then we found a part like a turnbuckle that was a perfect fit and i was able to easy back out the old oil fitment. Three bolts hold the oil cooler to the block - when putting back on - put the two lower hoses on first, when the cooler is in position under the exhaust manifold (I did not remove the exhaust manifold). Do the longer water exhaust hose first and tighten the clamp. Then do the short oil hose. With both lower hoses on and clamped - next you install the oil cooler to the block. You need to get the top bolt started first (important step) then the lower front bolt then the rear bolt. Then it racks right in. Go ahead and replace your oil filter - since all your oil is in the bilge you might as well do your oil change and filter change. I also replaced the #3 bolt on the other engine with a replacement part. Don't know if that will really prevent another failure on the other engine, but WTH, metal fatigue etc. I am keeping my old cooler - as i my try to tap out the broken bolt and have a spare on hand for when the other side fails. Net net, then only thing I really need was the oil cooler assembly.

 

[Tom_W]

Just finished the job. Since the boat is at my other house, i ordered the entire oil cooler assembly from babbitts, and all the bolts and rings, etc. (they were cheap compared to the oil cooler)

​

Oil Cooler Assy Options: Old Sku: 6BH-13470-00-00 Item #6BH-13470-21-00

$662.81​

1​

$662.81​

​

Marine Grease Size: 10 OZ Item #ACC-GREAS-10-CT	$7.90​	1​	$7.90​
	Yamashield™ Size: 12 OZ Item #ACC-YAMSH-LD-00	$9.49​	1​	$9.49​
	10W-40 Mineral 4W Watercraft Engine Oil Size: GALLON Item #LUB-10W40-WV-04	$20.99​	1​	$20.99​
	10W-40 Mineral 4W Watercraft Engine Oil Size: QUART Item #LUB-10W40-WV-12	$5.99​	2​	$11.98​
	Element Assy, Oil Cleaner Options: Old Sku: 69J-13440-01-00 Item #69J-13440-03-00	$16.79​	2​	$33.58​
	Oil Cooler Assy Options: Old Sku: 6BH-13470-00-00 Item #6BH-13470-21-00	$662.81​	1​	$662.81​
	Bolt, Union Item #6S5-12858-00-00	$11.67​	1​	$11.67​
	. .Bolt, Flange Item #90105-06185-00	$2.95​	2​	$5.90​
	Bolt, Flange Item #90105-08169-00	$2.95​	2​	$5.90​
	Bolt, Flange Item #90105-08170-00	$2.95​	1​	$2.95​
	O-Ring Item #93210-18322-00	$2.95​	4​	$11.80​

Upon inspection - sure enough - bolt three had snapped off with the threads remaining in the old oil cooler. Took about 3 hours to replace the oil cooler. If i did it again, i could do it in maybe 1 hour. Get three small hose clamps and don't bother trying to re-use the old spring clamps - mine were rusty aways. I was able to re-use the o rings etc. The bottom oil hose is kinda a bitch, very short and you are working in the blind to put it back on. Getting it off by prying with a screw driver is where you trash the old spring clamp. Also figured out that a bolt head will fit into the oil filter threaded fitment (it has like a 11 or 12 metric allen in the center) and the biggest allen at the hardware store was a 10mm and that was a little too loose. Then we found a part like a turnbuckle that was a perfect fit and i was able to easy back out the old oil fitment. Three bolts hold the oil cooler to the block - when putting back on - put the two lower hoses on first, when the cooler is in position under the exhaust manifold (I did not remove the exhaust manifold). Do the longer water exhaust hose first and tighten the clamp. Then do the short oil hose. With both lower hoses on and clamped - next you install the oil cooler to the block. You need to get the top bolt started first (important step) then the lower front bolt then the rear bolt. Then it racks right in. Go ahead and replace your oil filter - since all your oil is in the bilge you might as well do your oil change and filter change. I also replaced the #3 bolt on the other engine with a replacement part. Don't know if that will really prevent another failure on the other engine, but WTH, metal fatigue etc. I am keeping my old cooler - as i my try to tap out the broken bolt and have a spare on hand for when the other side fails. Net net, then only thing I really need was the oil cooler assembly.

The little connectors with the o-rings, can be removed with a light pull with some pliers - taking care not to damage the oil rings. mine came off and stayed with the oil cooler assembly, when i pulled the cooler away from the block.

 

[Augusto David Rodriguez]

I have experience today in my 212X 2012 in idle leaving the docks, no issue, suddenly after the no wake zone I hammer down( gas/ accelerating)
my oil low pressure alarm came on, I turn the engine immediately and when I open engine bay, I found the oil filter was gone! and some oil in the bilge pump. I replace the oil filter and add oil and did it again. did anyone experience to misthread that?i took a picture and look like have a allen ket to replace it? Any ideas!

 

[Ronnie]

I had both my oil coolers replaced under an extended warranty @ 200 hours around 2014. The dealer told me that my warranty covered about $2,500. That didn’t cover the oil and filters and I had a deductible but the total was still under $3k. I don’t have the part numbers but recall that the oil cooler covers and bolts that are faulty (from 2010) are physically different from the replacement parts. I’d have to search the threads on Yamaha jet boaters For the threads but I think the new bolts heads don’t have a crown and the older ones did. Also there is a raised arrow pointing at the third or fourth boat down on the cooler face of the newer coolers. I may have one or both of these differneces reversed and will try to check out my coolers the next time I’m in my boat.

 

[tdonoughue]

@Augusto David Rodriguez , you may want to put that on a thread of its own--a new one. It will get better attention that way. Include your pics...

 

[Chewiem16]

Yamaha Jetboat | Oil Cooler Replacement

old post I know, but incase people are looking!