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"So long" surge brakes!

h2oskierfl95

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
89
Reaction score
69
Points
87
Location
Orlando, FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
If anyone is on the fence about getting rid of the surge brakes, I would highly recommend it. Finally got to pull her around with the electric over hydraulic conversion and it was great. No more clunks at every start, nice smooth stops, and total control from the cab.
 

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I’ve been debating this, read a few threads and will probably be on my ”boat wish list” for a couple more seasons. Did you do this yourself?
 
I’ve been debating this, read a few threads and will probably be on my ”boat wish list” for a couple more seasons. Did you do this yourself?

Yes, I did it all myself. My surge cylinder had a leak, so I used it as an opportunity to upgrade. It's a pretty easy process if you're handy.
 
With the 7 pin wiring, battery pack, and brake bleeding, probably 4-6 hours. I made an aluminum bracket to hang it off the side of the tounge because I didn't want to be denting the tailgate if I mounted it on top.
 
Is replacing the front pin with a bolt enough to prevent the surge piston from moving or is there another mod you had to make?
 
Well you must have recieved the last one in the country, b/c there out of stock everywhere. I am in the same situation. Just ordered all stainless calipers and rotors, now needing to either rebuild surge master or buy replacement . 2 year old shorelander aluminum/galvanized trailer. All brake components corroded to failure, depite my vigilinance in keeping it washed down. Even after launching! Starting to realize how they screw us with incompatible saltwater comonents on their trailers. Steel washers, steel adel clamps, steel leaf springs, steal backed brake pads, chrome caliper pistons ect.. if you use these trailers in saltwater you will be upgrading to stainless very soon.
 
I thought about it when I just fixed my surge brakes but I couldn't justify the expense. If I had the need to replace calipers, rotors/hubs, and actuator/internals then I would have definitely considered. My left caliper had been replaced a few years ago and was pristine and my right caliper was working well and not rusted, so for $300 mine is good as new.
 
What was the cost?
 
Is replacing the front pin with a bolt enough to prevent the surge piston from moving or is there another mod you had to make?
I pulled both pins and replaced with 3/4" bolts. They are torqued down pretty good. Haven't had any movement yet, but if I do, I plan on just welding the tounge in place.
 
Well you must have recieved the last one in the country, b/c there out of stock everywhere. I am in the same situation. Just ordered all stainless calipers and rotors, now needing to either rebuild surge master or buy replacement . 2 year old shorelander aluminum/galvanized trailer. All brake components corroded to failure, depite my vigilinance in keeping it washed down. Even after launching! Starting to realize how they screw us with incompatible saltwater comonents on their trailers. Steel washers, steel adel clamps, steel leaf springs, steal backed brake pads, chrome caliper pistons ect.. if you use these trailers in saltwater you will be upgrading to stainless very soon.

I actually ordered it last October and it's been sitting in the garage since then. Luckily, it was before prices went up too.
 
What was the cost?
I ordered the actuator back in October and got it for $650 before prices went crazy. Right now, if you can ever find one, they are going to $800 to $1000. The breakaway battery and charger was $50ish on amazon. Definitely more than just replacing the surge piston, but we take it from Florida to Virginia every summer and worth it in my opinion. I've never been a fan of surge brakes especially in the mountains.
 
I pulled both pins and replaced with 3/4" bolts. They are torqued down pretty good. Haven't had any movement yet, but if I do, I plan on just welding the tounge in place.
Just got back from a 1300 mile round trip with the boat including the horrible stretch of 95 in South Carolina. The tounge did not move at all with just the bolts. If it didn't move from that, I think it's good
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but how is this holding up? Is your junction box going under water when you launch?
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but how is this holding up? Is your junction box going under water when you launch?
So far, so good. The junction box is always high and dry. I've picked up a new truck since install and I am getting a random "Service trailer brake system" error from the Silverado. The consensus seems to be an electronics error with the truck though.
 
So far, so good. The junction box is always high and dry. I've picked up a new truck since install and I am getting a random "Service trailer brake system" error from the Silverado. The consensus seems to be an electronics error with the truck though.
I had that error quite a bit on my '15 Sierra. Dealership tracked it down to a faulty brake pedal position sensor.

Glad to the the EOH brakes are holding up well.
 
I had that error quite a bit on my '15 Sierra. Dealership tracked it down to a faulty brake pedal position sensor.

Glad to the the EOH brakes are holding up well.
It seems like the more "features" they put in the trucks, the more errors that come up. I'm close to installing an aftermarket brake controller and being done with it.
 
It seems like the more "features" they put in the trucks, the more errors that come up. I'm close to installing an aftermarket brake controller and being done with it.
I used a Curt BT controller recently. It worked far better than I expected.
Only concern is how to disable the in-cab controller so they aren't fighting each other.
 
food for thought…the integrated trailer brake controllers also work with the anti lock braking system to keep the trailer brakes from locking up and having your trailer try and pass you under hard braking.

Yes, there’s a lot more features and that can cause some problems, but, in my 2020 F-350 Ford for instance, I will get messages to let me know if one of the turn signal lights is not working on the trailer, or if the 7 pin connector is not seated correctly. Pretty darn cool really. I would venture to guess the errors are or could be caused by the “noise” the electric motor puts into the system. I’d also like to go with electric over hydraulic for how that unit will perform, not so much the little jolt that’s felt when pulling away after a stop. Being able to apply the trailer brakes manually by hand is something I’ve always liked having in my tool kit, and as @h2oskierfl95 stated not being a fan of it in the mountains. I live in the mountains and while the surge brakes seem to work well, I’m concerned about them applying themselves going down hill when I’m using the exhaust brake and getting over heated.

I saw this unit at the outdoor show mounted on the tongue of a Malibu wake boat. It’s manufactured by Titan. They’re proud of them for sure. Etrailer has them at a discounted price of $889 vs. $1400. This is the whole kit but does not include a breakaway battery. https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Actuator/Dexter/T4813102.html

B904E9BD-1058-4AB1-B2C5-BAF348174314.png
 
If anyone is on the fence about getting rid of the surge brakes, I would highly recommend it. Finally got to pull her around with the electric over hydraulic conversion and it was great. No more clunks at every start, nice smooth stops, and total control from the cab.

Very cool! Was this the Plug N Play kit or did you hardwire everything?

I was wondering on how to adapt this kit and where to mount it. I sent Shorelandr' and email and they said... I could unhook the current actuator, plug the hole and use it as a coupler – then install your electric brake set up. Or… We have a non-brake swing tongue kit( part number 6952616) in which you would also need to purchase a coupler ( after market) that would fit and work with your electric over hydraulic brake kit.
 
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