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New to me 2005 AR230HO Overheat

LeoAsman97

Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
2
Points
12
Location
Chula Vista
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2005
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
ALERT! NOVICE STORY! Bought a one owner boat a couple of weeks ago. Took it to the local Yamaha service dept to have them check it out and do a full service. Shop also changed out the steering lines, shift cables and a new scupper and said the engines checked out good. Well, we got to the lake and I THOUGHT I did everything right on my checklist. But I didn’t double check the cleanouts. So we launched and had almost no thrust. I’ve never driven a jet boat before, so I didn’t know what was not normal so I limped to the dock. Btw, the no make mode seemed to work. At this point, I hadn’t figured out the issue and so we “no waked” it to the edge of the no wake zone. I was frantically trying to look for something I missed on the throttle quadrant and gave it some more gas a few times and was getting no thrust (obviously). Then the overheat lights came on. So I shut down and pulled out the manual. At this point, I ran through everything another time and this time checked the cleanouts. They were not seated, but I got them in and then started troubleshooting. Once we started back up, thrust was available (limp mode) and we verified the 4 water spouts were fully flowing. So I very gently circled around on minimal thrust for a few minutes hoping this would cool the engine. No joy, so we limped back to the dock. We opened the engine compartment, but neither engine felt super hot. We sat there with the engines off for about 30 min and as I was checking online and saw a recommendation to reset the battery. We did and voila, the lights were out. Whether it was the rest or the battery, I’m not sure. But we got out on the lake, but after about 5 -10 min the light on the right engine came on again. It went into limp mode and shortly after the left did the same thing. So we got to a safe spot and anchored for lunch… Of course, no cell signal. But after an hour or so we started back up (lights were out) and headed back in at about 6000 rpm. 5-10 min later, lights come on again and we limped back to the dock at minimal power.

So, first off, I’m an idiot! No argument there, but once the engines cooled (assuming they actually overheated) should the verification of the water cooling spouts (pissers) kept them cool at the point we got everything situated properly? I’m not sure what my next move should be… Thanks in advance! Fire away!
 
Congratulations on the new old boat. I had the same model. Did you take it for a water test before purchasing? There are a few heat sensors from memory one in the exhaust and one on the engine they did have some issues with sensors going bad with age. Did you check the oil? does it look like a milk shake? do you remember if steam was coming out of the pissers while in no wake mode?

Get an infrared heat reader run each motor on the hose for like 5 minutes take some temperature readings as it runs you will see the wire going into the exhaust .

Maybe they failed from getting hot the first time


Port best.jpg
 
Unfortunately, I didn’t test it before purchase. No steam and my son (before I could stop him) felt the water coming out and said it felt like 90 degrees. I’ll check the oil and see if I can find an IR gun. Thanks!
 
Unfortunately you should have did a watertest before you had the shop service it. So much can cause an overheat even though the pissers are spraying. Check the thermostats, were they changed at the dealer?
 
The shop recommended trying again after a couple days out of the water. And if the problem persists they can pull the codes. Question, how much water should be coming out of the pissers at cruise rpm?
 
The shop thinks it mysteriously fixed itself? Dont take it out untill you get it fixed. You are risking more damage.
Change the thermostats before you go any further
 
I’m going to pull the thermostats. However, is there a shop manual available for these engines? Torque settings, grease or thread sealant etc? Thanks!
 
I’m going to pull the thermostats. However, is there a shop manual available for these engines? Torque settings, grease or thread sealant etc? Thanks!
Of course there is just Google your year and model and service manual
 
Got my service manual and removed the thermostats. The port engine was failed open and the starboard was closed. But when tested, only partially opened at temp. Quite a bit of crud in the housing, but less than I expected. I ordered new ones and hopefully get her on the water shortly thereafter! I might pull a couple additional hoses to clean as much crud out without doing the full flush.
 
So got her on the water today and same problem on the starboard engine. 4-5 minutes just outside the no wake, it rolled into limp mode with an overheat. I had an infrared thermometer and the hottest reading I could get anywhere on the block was 175. The port engine was about 25-30 degrees cooler at 148 at the same spot. The exhaust areas matched up fine and were low. (85-95 degrees). I’ve got a yds cable, but no software, so that is coming tomorrow along with a cheapy pc laptop to hook it to.

Beside pulling codes and temp readings, I’m thinking of pulling a bunch of the water lines to see if there are obstructions to the block.

Any other thoughts? Thanks!
 
Do you know the exact location of the temperature sensors ? Thats the location to read with the infrared but good to hear it does not have hot spots. The diagnostic software should give some info I would look into sourcing new sensors or even how to test the sensors. Maybe swap from one motor to the other to see if it makes that motor go into limp mode.
 
Dang, my money was on the thermostats. A buddy had to replace both his last year, because of corrosion build up. There is an outlet on the back of the boat above each jet pump you could visually check too.
 
This Video has some great info and shows the location of the sensors at 5:55

 
I’ve watched the video on the cooling system (very informative) several times. I’m anxious to see what the yds logged. The problem with swapping the sensors is that they are so hard to get to. The exhaust one is the easiest, but the block on/off sensor is buried under the exhaust manifold and the other analog thermosensor is even further back.

I’ll update what the software shows after I get it hooked up tonight.
 
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