‘24 ar190, bilge light, working? Ski locker

[SamClay]

‘24 AR190, 1 month old. Last night, noticed that when flipping my bilge pump on, there was no red light. I pressed the button under the switch (assuming this is the breaker) and the light would go on but then after about 30 seconds, turn off. Tried this multiple times all with the same result. Unsure if the bilge was even running (I am new, not sure how to tell) at all and thinking back to the last few outings, don’t remember if the light has ever been on.
Related or related:
We had about 3 inches standing water in ski locker. The previous night it rained very heavy and I had the cover off because I was prepping the boat for the next day. Drain in locker was unplugged but water obviously wasn’t draining, could have been because tube was in there.
I took tube out, and some water drained but not to empty. While running the boat the water in the ski locker got very hot.
Again, unsure if any of these things are related, a problem or what have you.
My drain plugs in back of boat were in during operation.
Biggest concern is the bilge and not knowing if it works or not.
Help appreciated!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Have you pulled the bilge pump out of its holder screen and checked for debris to make sure that it’s free? The red run light on the rocker switch for the build shows power to the bilge pump if it’s going out, and the circuit breaker is tripping then there’s something jamming up the pump and that needs to be cleared because it’s tripping on high current.

The hot water in your ski locker is troublesome. Like how hot?

Are all of your pilot water outlets flowing? How much water comes out of your boat at the end of the day?

 

[SamClay]

I’m not sure how to do that. I reached underneath and this was caught underneath it. How do I disconnect bilge to check filter?

 

[VitaminSea]

Do you have a picture of your bilge pump? Most models have clips on the side that hold the pump to a strainer. When you squeeze the clips the top portion of the pump with release and the strainer basket will remain attached to the hull.


After you check, if on a trailer/lift suggest using a garden hose (or bucket) and filling the bilge with some water (drain plug in) to verify the operation of the pump and how much of the water it will pump out. This will give you a visual so you understand when the pump will engage and disengage.

For many years the pumps that Yamaha used did not have a float switch but cycled on and checked for resistance to determine if it should go back into standby mode or continue to pump. I believe the cycle time on those models is around 2-2.5 mins.

Depending upon the results you may determine that you want to install a high water alarm and potentially a second pump for redundancy.

Also, next time out on the water, open your engine hatch and check that the engine and/intermediate bearing (where the engine connects to the driveshaft) is not leaking water.

As for the ski locker not drainig, there is also a drain plug or two in the engine compartment (forward). If those were closed the water might not of had anywhere to drain to - however that would not explain why the water in the locker got warm.

When you are finished, see if you can get the trailer on an incline and let gravity assist in draining the hull.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Do you have a picture of your bilge pump? Most models have clips on the side that hold the pump to a strainer. When you squeeze the clips the top portion of the pump with release and the strainer basket will remain attached to the hull.


After you check, if on a trailer/lift suggest using a garden hose (or bucket) and filling the bilge with some water (drain plug in) to verify the operation of the pump and how much of the water it will pump out. This will give you a visual so you understand when the pump will engage and disengage.

For many years the pumps that Yamaha used did not have a float switch but cycled on and checked for resistance to determine if it should go back into standby mode or continue to pump. I believe the cycle time on those models is around 2-2.5 mins.

Depending upon the results you may determine that you want to install a high water alarm and potentially a second pump for redundancy.

Also, next time out on the water, open your engine hatch and check that the engine and/intermediate bearing (where the engine connects to the driveshaft) is not leaking water.

As for the ski locker not drainig, there is also a drain plug or two in the engine compartment (forward). If those were closed the water might not of had anywhere to drain to - however that would not explain why the water in the locker got warm.

When you are finished, see if you can get the trailer on an incline and let gravity assist in draining the hull.

I think all of the newer model bilge pumps have internal floats or sensors.. my 2020 is like that.

 

[SamClay]

I think all of the newer model bilge pumps have internal floats or sensors.. my 2020 is like that.

Here is my pump. Am I able to take this apart at all to check to see if there’s something in there? I don’t see any obvious release buttons

 

[VitaminSea]

Looks like you removed the strainer basket - blue part in photo below. If you do not have any blockages, then you just need to test it.

Since you have it removed, you could place it in a bucket of water to verify it’s working without tripping the breaker.