195s Dual Battery & Sound System Upgrade

[Farny]

Yes I will intall the ACR just like you did with the braker so I can disconnect when charging But I'm waiting on the switch

Well on the noco I think I will move it, I put it there because I tought I had to select what battery I'm charging everytime I plugged in but I have notice that it remember I might use that space for the breakers or ACR

I do have 2 brakers of 50 amp you think I can use those or should I buy 60amp brakers ?

On the tower speaker wires I open the screw hole that was there that I never use I hope I never have to use it ? I dicide to insall there because I like how the look and on the other bar they stick out to much and I storage the boat on my garage so I have to put the tower down and it will hit the steering wheel on the other bar and on that location I wanted them far to the corner because I didint know they are that big and in the middle I will hit it all the time

I really like the look on the bar you used. Wish I had thought of that! Your probably fine with the 50a breakers. If they trip a bunch you can always go up to 60 later. I ended up mounting the NOCO where the fiberglass begins on that wall. Made a small mounting board and 5200 the board to the fiberglass . The charger fit perfect there.

 

[Pedrazaj1]

I did not use the start isolation. Just the ground with fuse. You could actually put a switch there to turn off the acr and isolate when you charge if you want. (See switch option in diagram) There is a wiring diagram I posted earlier but I did modify slightly. Instead of running stock accessories off the house, I kept all stock wiring on the start side and only ran the amps off the house battery. Here is the diagram blue seas recommended.

You can call them for support if you like. They did explain as soon as the acr sees a charge from engine or charger it will combine. That’s why I disconnect at the breaker when shore charging, keeps them isolated during 2 bank charging.

https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980014350.pdf

I try to do the same but my amp or the radio don't like it I have to connect the house cable and the amp Cable on the same battery if I use different batery my amps don't turn on because I have the remote wire from the radio and I guess is different voltage it only power one vut all 3 I won't do it unless radui and amp are connect to the same batery maybe is a JL thing ?

 

[Farny]

I try to do the same but my amp or the radio don't like it I have to connect the house cable and the amp Cable on the same battery if I use different batery my amps don't turn on because I have the remote wire from the radio and I guess is different voltage it only power one vut all 3 I won't do it unless radui and amp are connect to the same batery maybe is a JL thing ?

Very strange it should work…
Do you have a common ground bar? I ran the blue remote wire from the head to the first amp then jumped it from there to the second amp and another to the powered sub amp.

 

[Pedrazaj1]

Very strange it should work…
Do you have a common ground bar? I ran the blue remote wire from the head to the first amp then jumped it from there to the second amp and another to the powered sub amp.

For the remote wires I use a 3 way distribution block fron the radio to all 3 amp

On the battery side this is how I'm going to wire everything I just hove to fix it and make it pretty but I didint put a grown bar I just ran the ACR negative wire straight to a battery -terminal is that ok ?

 

[Farny]

For the remote wires I use a 3 way distribution block fron the radio to all 3 amp

On the battery side this is how I'm going to wire everything I just hove to fix it and make it pretty but I didint put a grown bar I just ran the ACR negative wire straight to a battery -terminal is that ok ?

I would think it is ok to go to the ground on a battery. As long as the batteries are grounded together.

 

[212s]

I would think it is ok to go to the ground on a battery. As long as the batteries are grounded together.

I concur...the black ground wire for the ACR can go straight to the battery or a ground bar. It's very low current but it needs a direct connection back to the battery to activate the ACR.

 

[Hike]

What is everyone using for wiring clips to secure power and speaker wires to fiberglass? I tried adhesive belt clips with additional Seal All and that didn’t work. Any suggestions?

 

[kgower]

Good question was wondering same.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Wire clips with some 5200 on them as an adhesive. Can put them anywhere you like and will adhere for ever. Just put a nice daub on the flat part of the clip and stick them were you like. Let them set up for a bit and you are good to go. Get the adhesive wire clips with the small flat plate. I also use this method with zip tie clips as well that have a flat area so hold up other wires and cables in the boat as well as securing things I don't want to drill holes for. The adhesives that come on them are junk, the 5200 will hold it rock solid.

 

[Hike]

Wire clips with some 5200 on them as an adhesive. Can put them anywhere you like and will adhere for ever. Just put a nice daub on the flat part of the clip and stick them were you like. Let them set up for a bit and you are good to go. Get the adhesive wire clips with the small flat plate. I also use this method with zip tie clips as well that have a flat area so hold up other wires and cables in the boat as well as securing things I don't want to drill holes for. The adhesives that come on them are junk, the 5200 will hold it rock solid.

would JB Weld work as an epoxy? cant get 5200 anytime soon.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I dunno. Why can't you get 5200 ? is it not available around you? I have a shit ton of it from.last year.

Amazon.com: 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 (06500) Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs Above and Below the Waterline Waterproof Repair, White, 10 fl oz Cartridge : Home & Kitchen

 

[Farny]

Wire clips with some 5200 on them as an adhesive. Can put them anywhere you like and will adhere for ever. Just put a nice daub on the flat part of the clip and stick them were you like. Let them set up for a bit and you are good to go. Get the adhesive wire clips with the small flat plate. I also use this method with zip tie clips as well that have a flat area so hold up other wires and cables in the boat as well as securing things I don't want to drill holes for. The adhesives that come on them are junk, the 5200 will hold it rock solid.

I did the same with the zip ties that have the release tab on them. Same thing the Yamaha factory does for holding up their wiring.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

For the remote wires I use a 3 way distribution block fron the radio to all 3 amp

On the battery side this is how I'm going to wire everything I just hove to fix it and make it pretty but I didint put a grown bar I just ran the ACR negative wire straight to a battery -terminal is that ok ?

While you probably will be fine, I ALWAYS use a relay to turn on more than one amplifier. A distro block will still put the amp strain on the remote wire. I have never personally had a blow remote out, but have seen burned up remote wires. A few bucks for a relay is worth the protection IMO.

 

[Ship Face]

I’ve Done the research and All the parts are in! Ready to start upgrade to the 2020 195s this weekend! Super excited. Thanks to all of you who have answered my questions and have posted great threads. I’ll try to capture pics etc as I go hope this thread will save someone all the research time I spent

Parts List:
AGM Deep Cycle battery XSPower XP3000
4 AWG tinned copper power and ground wire 6ft
Ground Bar
Marine grade #4 ring terminals (6)
2 65 AMP Breakers
1 1AMP fuse with inline holder
Blue Seas Mini Add a battery kit with ACR
NOCO gen5 10A 2 bank on board charger
2nd Kicker Amp KXM400.2
2 additional KTM8 towers on swivels
50’ RGB combo Speaker Wire
1 60 AMP FUSE (amp power line)

Existing equipment:
2 KTM8 towers with swivels
1 Kicker KXM400.2 AMP (runs 2 towers)
4 AWG tinned copper power and ground wire 6ft
60 AMP inline fuse
1 10” powered sub in box (8AWG kit)
40 AMP inline fuse
4 Stock WetSounds cabin speakers
Stock RA-70 Fusion head unit

Thanks for the direction and posts : @Hoyt @HangOutdoors @marcham @HawaiiBreeze @Julian @212s
@4x15mph
https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-a-2nd-battery.26608/post-443763

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2020-195s-build-thread-warning-pic-heavy.24575/

@kgower @philistine and others! Let me know if I left u off the list

Why the mini ones? I thought you needed the bigger one for this boat

 

[Farny]

Why the mini ones? I thought you needed the bigger one for this boat

The mini add a battery is fine- our motor stator doesn’t put out enough amps ( only 25 ) to need the bigger kit. The mini is for 65amp and below.

 

[Jmesduncan]

Hey I’m just sneaking in here but I’m in the research phase for what battery set up I should have on my 03 Caravelle 207. You guys are obviously all in deep with the audio so I’m sure you all could offer some help. Boat came with one battery originally and I’m definitely needing two. I’m installing about 2500-3000 rms worth is amps with a total of 8 speakers two being 12 inch 800 watt rms subs. My questions are if I run a normal flooded lead acid for starter can I run an xs power agm and they both charge off my alternator?? It’s 65 Amps duty cycle. Also if I install a switch how would I play my stereo when starting the boat or do I have to literately have the switch on starter battery and once boats started swap to house to play the stereo?? I’m an extreme newbie with all this so any advice on exactly what I should do is greatly appreciated. I’ve been doing research but I don’t know exactly what I’m supposed to be looking for if that makes any sense. I’m sure there’s a very simple answer to these questions and seeing that the original post has exactly the set up I’m thinking of (flooded acid battery for starter and xs power for house) who better to ask…

 

[Farny]

Hey I’m just sneaking in here but I’m in the research phase for what battery set up I should have on my 03 Caravelle 207. You guys are obviously all in deep with the audio so I’m sure you all could offer some help. Boat came with one battery originally and I’m definitely needing two. I’m installing about 2500-3000 rms worth is amps with a total of 8 speakers two being 12 inch 800 watt rms subs. My questions are if I run a normal flooded lead acid for starter can I run an xs power agm and they both charge off my alternator?? It’s 65 Amps duty cycle. Also if I install a switch how would I play my stereo when starting the boat or do I have to literately have the switch on starter battery and once boats started swap to house to play the stereo?? I’m an extreme newbie with all this so any advice on exactly what I should do is greatly appreciated. I’ve been doing research but I don’t know exactly what I’m supposed to be looking for if that makes any sense. I’m sure there’s a very simple answer to these questions and seeing that the original post has exactly the set up I’m thinking of (flooded acid battery for starter and xs power for house) who better to ask…

XS power has a calculator you can use for battery size for your application, but my guess is- run 2 house batteries for the sound system amps, keep your original battery just for the start. I’m only pulling about 1400w rms so one additional battery works for me. You could go with 2 battery switches. The alternator will never charge the batteries fully, so a 3 bank onboard charger is the way to go. Plug in when docked or parked on the trailer to maintain. It will recharge full for next trip out. With 2 dedicated sound batteries, you should get lots of hours listening and not have to worry about running down your starter battery.

 

[Jmesduncan]

XS power has a calculator you can use for battery size for your application, but my guess is- run 2 house batteries for the sound system amps, keep your original battery just for the start. I’m only pulling about 1400w rms so one additional battery works for me. You could go with 2 battery switches. The alternator will never charge the batteries fully, so a 3 bank onboard charger is the way to go. Plug in when docked or parked on the trailer to maintain. It will recharge full for next trip out. With 2 dedicated sound batteries, you should get lots of hours listening and not have to worry about running down your starter battery.

Thanks for the feedback. So I’m wondering if I did decide to go with a good start battery and then two deep cycle batteries for the sound system couldnt I just run one battery switch and have the two house batteries in parallel and they charge and be treated as one ? I’m sure the alternator won’t charge them fully if I’ve drained them pretty decent but if I only had a moderate amount of play time I’m thinking that having them wired like that would give the alternator the chance to charge both simultaneously. The idea of having to have two switches seems like it’s just a lot of wiring and almost more of a headache than it’s worth with having to swap between multiple batteries. Running them parallel seems like it would be the best way to wire them but that may not be possible or may not do what I think it should. I’m just barely starting to learn about all this battery stuff and one thing I’ve quickly realized is everyone has different ways of doing things and very very few people agree on the same thing.

 

[Farny]

Thanks for the feedback. So I’m wondering if I did decide to go with a good start battery and then two deep cycle batteries for the sound system couldnt I just run one battery switch and have the two house batteries in parallel and they charge and be treated as one ? I’m sure the alternator won’t charge them fully if I’ve drained them pretty decent but if I only had a moderate amount of play time I’m thinking that having them wired like that would give the alternator the chance to charge both simultaneously. The idea of having to have two switches seems like it’s just a lot of wiring and almost more of a headache than it’s worth with having to swap between multiple batteries. Running them parallel seems like it would be the best way to wire them but that may not be possible or may not do what I think it should. I’m just barely starting to learn about all this battery stuff and one thing I’ve quickly realized is everyone has different ways of doing things and very very few people agree on the same thing.

I suppose you could run them combined off one switch, but you will also drain the start battery. That’s why I did the blue seas add a battery kit. Easy to install and will charge all when running, separate house bank from start when floating.
Blue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Kit https://a.co/d/d3Fr1ck

 

[Jmesduncan]

I suppose you could run them combined off one switch, but you will also drain the start battery. That’s why I did the blue seas add a battery kit. Easy to install and will charge all when running, separate house bank from start when floating.
Blue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Kit https://a.co/d/d3Fr1ck

That’s what I meant. Add one switch and treat the house batteries as one. Instead of having two switches and treating all like separate banks. Just have one starter battery on one and the two house as one battery paralleled. That way when the switch is on the two house batteries they are combined as one battery and they will also charge as one when riding.