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1st Time Boat Owner 2022 FSH 210 Sport Winterization

tradenpaint

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2021
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Hello,

Brought my boat home today after a 15 month wait. Test drove for about 30 minutes w/tech. Looks like it will be in the lower 30's (32) by the end of the week. I need to know what steps to winterize the boat. I know I need to put a fuel stabilizer in the gas. Not sure if they did that at the dealership. We did blow out the jets exiting the water on the ramp and drained out the clean out ports. Is there anything else I need to do? TIA
 

HangOutdoors

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I fog my engines, basically use the Yamalube fogging oil/spray and spray it down each spark plug hole (removing and then replacing the plugs after you spray) then pull the kill switch and crank over the engine for a few seconds. I also use some Damp Rid, a couple of small buckets and put one in the front and one in the rear cockpit then cover it for the winter with the factory shipping cover. Also I spray down my jet linkage that is one the outside and all nuts and bolts around the jets with Yamalube Silicone Spray as well as the winch and trailer tongue parts. Leave your keel plug out and all of your internal hull plugs in the engine bay and ski locker open. Shut batteries off and if you don't have an onboard charger that you can plug in all winter, pull the batteries and put them on a maintainer in your garage. If it snows where you are at make sure you use the poles for the factory cover (unless you are getting it wrapped). Shake out the plugs they will hold water inside of them and leave them on your swim deck.

If your boat is boing to be kept outside, tilt up the tongue so any water that does get in can drain back and put the tongue on a jack stand to take the weight of the jack.

Picture of what I did today.

 
Last edited:

tradenpaint

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I fog my engines, basically use the Yamalube fogging oil/spray and spray it down each spark plug hole (removing and then replacing the plugs after you spray) then pull the kill switch and crank over the engine for a few seconds. I also use some Damp Rid, a couple of small buckets and put one in the front and one in the rear cockpit then cover it for the winter with the factory shipping cover. Also I spray down my jet linkage that is one the outside and all nuts and bolts around the jets with Yamalube Silicone Spray as well as the winch and trailer tongue parts. Leave your keel plug out and all of your internal hull plugs in the engine bay and ski locker open. Shut batteries off and if you don't have an onboard charger that you can plug in all winter, pull the batteries and put them on a maintainer in your garage. If it snows where you are at make sure you use the poles for the factory cover (unless you are getting it wrapped). Shake out the plugs they will hold water inside of them and leave them on your swim deck.

If your boat is boing to be kept outside, tilt up the tongue so any water that does get in can drain back and put the tongue on a jack stand to take the weight of the jack.

Picture of what I did today.

Is this what you use?

Yamaha ACC-SLCNS-PR-AY Silicone Spray Protectant & Lubricant, Pack of 2: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

HangOutdoors

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Yes that is what I use. I always have a couple of cans around. One in my truck boat container and one in the boat. Use it all the time on everything, hinges, locks, anything that moves. It is fantastic stuff. Get some cans of it and always get them and keep them handy. I usually get 4 at a times so I don't run out.

The fogging oil is this,

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube ACC-STORE-RI-TE Engine Fogging Oil : Automotive

Also I would rev your engines once more during winterization to make sure no water is left in the water box. Run off the off hose, rev it a few times then shut down. I don't run mine for more than 10-15 seconds or so when doing that off hose.
 

HangOutdoors

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tradenpaint

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Yes that is what I use. I always have a couple of cans around. One in my truck boat container and one in the boat. Use it all the time on everything, hinges, locks, anything that moves. It is fantastic stuff. Get some cans of it and always get them and keep them handy. I usually get 4 at a times so I don't run out.

The fogging oil is this,

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube ACC-STORE-RI-TE Engine Fogging Oil : Automotive

Also I would rev your engines once more during winterization to make sure no water is left in the water box. Run off the off hose, rev it a few times then shut down. I don't run mine for more than 10-15 seconds or so when doing that off hose.
Suggestions for a 2 battery maintainer?
 

HangOutdoors

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I use NOCO products, but I have an onboard Gen 5 40 amp 4 bank charger and 4 batteries right now so I just plug that in and leave batteries in the boat. Since I am currently running LiFePo4, AGM and Wet the NOCO can handle them all. In any event NOCO's are a solid brand.

NOCO - Genius Multi-Purpose Battery Chargers

There are a lot of good brands out there though.

If you search the forums here for battery maintainer you will see a lot of recommendations of different products that people are using.
 

tradenpaint

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HangOutdoors

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I doubt they did. You could call and ask them. Never heard of a dealer doing that on delivery, yet.
 

FSH 210 Sport

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Your boat has a raw water wash down system, this system is fed from water from the Starboard jet pump that goes up to a bulkhead mounted shut off valve. The line that carries this water makes a some circuitous turns through the aft bilge compartment up to the quick disconnect in the rear starboard area of your boat.

It would be a good idea to 1-check the bulk head valve to make sure it is in the on position. 2-blow this line out with some low pressure air, perhaps 20 psi to make sure there is not water in that line.

Your gas tank should be full when putting it into storage, if you need to fill it up you can add the fuel stabilizer BEFORE you put the gas in so it will mix up while you fill the tank. If non ethanol gasoline is available in your area use that fuel, your engines only require 86 octane fuel. Once the tank is full, take the boat home and get set up to run the engines on the hose.

Remember, start the engine first, then turn on the water. When shutting down an engine that is on the hose, turn the water off first, then turn off the engine. This keeps the water from flowing into an open exhaust valve when the engine is not running. Then blow the water out of the engine that was just running and repeat on the other engine. By doing this you will get the treated fuel up into the fuel system of each engine. I’d say running each motor on the hose for 6 minutes or so should do the trick.

You have removed all of the water that could pose a problem, and @HangOutdoors suggestions are just about all of the rest.

FWIW, I use my boat into the colder times of the year, like when overnight lows are in the teens and daytime highs are in the 20’s and 30’s. I start running fuel stabilizer in my tank as the weather cools off heading into fall, so the gas is always treated. All I do when I pull the boat out is to blow the water locks (mufflers) out, make sure the clean out plugs are drained, the main plug is out and I leave the nose of the boat up as high as the jack will take it, and put the cover on it. Once the weather is too nasty or the water starts to turn to a solid, I pull the T top off and put it in my heated shop which is kept around 38-40* during winter. How far you go on “winterizing“ is a bit dependent on whether the boat is stored outdoors or is stored like my boat is.
 

tdonoughue

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I may have missed it above, but where are you? @HangOutdoors procedures in MI will be different from @FSH 210 Sport on the moon which will be different from mine down here in TX.

All of that said, the 'winterization' 'requirements' for these boats is a joke. Very little is really needed and lots of things you do beyond what you have already done are probably optional. Down here, I blow out the engines as you have done, put it away, and pull it out again when it reaches 50 degrees. If I were in the northern climes I would probably do more, but even then I am not yet convinced that would be needed. Boat is a big investment, but even still, with a system as simple as Yamaha's on these engines, very little you need to do.
 

HangOutdoors

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OP mentioned freezing temps, would assume in the midwest or noeth. Sounds like the weather we are about to get.
 

tradenpaint

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Hey guys...thanks for the feedback. What do you guys use to remove the trailer roller scuff marks? I bought a Stoltz roller to swap out but I wanted to remove the scuff marks created by the factory roller. The dealership used a 2 step process (2 products) to remove it at the dealership but I was busy having them correct a couple of outages to see what they used. One of the products was ABPCO Liquid Ebony (2nd application I believe).
 

tradenpaint

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I may have missed it above, but where are you? @HangOutdoors procedures in MI will be different from @FSH 210 Sport on the moon which will be different from mine down here in TX.

All of that said, the 'winterization' 'requirements' for these boats is a joke. Very little is really needed and lots of things you do beyond what you have already done are probably optional. Down here, I blow out the engines as you have done, put it away, and pull it out again when it reaches 50 degrees. If I were in the northern climes I would probably do more, but even then I am not yet convinced that would be needed. Boat is a big investment, but even still, with a system as simple as Yamaha's on these engines, very little you need to do.
I'm on the Texas /Ok border...30 yr boat owner friend of mine tells me he puts a small ceramic heater in his engine compartment...what do you guys think? Very little room in my engine compartment.
 

biffdotorg

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I'm on the Texas /Ok border...30 yr boat owner friend of mine tells me he puts a small ceramic heater in his engine compartment...what do you guys think? Very little room in my engine compartment.
The real question is why, what is the goal of the heater. Your original question was how to winterize. make the decision of what you think will freeze, as it will help you in determining, that there is no real winterization, as nothing can freeze. If you think something will freeze, winterize, but don't waste money on a heater, if literally nothing can freeze. Especially if you go to the length of running antifreeze, you have then addresses the one and only concern (valid or not)

Fill us in, as there is nothing in my yamaha that can freeze, if there were, it would have caused me some serious issues many years ago.

Good luck,
 

FSH 210 Sport

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I'm on the Texas /Ok border...30 yr boat owner friend of mine tells me he puts a small ceramic heater in his engine compartment...what do you guys think? Very little room in my engine compartment.
What kind of boat does your friend have? Is it a yamaha jet boat?

For my first winter I thought about putting a small ignition proof heater in the engine bay, I also did the antifreeze thing too. But as time went on and I had read posts here from many.

I also called Yamaha corporate (who told me to do all the same things folks here told me to do)
  • be sure and blow out the mufflers,
  • blow out the raw water wash down line
  • put fuel stabilizer in well before winter storage so that the stabilizer would have mixed in thoroughly throughout the fuel system while you were boating the last few times of the year.
  • be sure you keep a battery maintainer on the batteries whether in the boat or out.
  • no fogging since I store my boat in a heated shop, and that was it.
  • Keep the nose of the boat up while on the trailer if storing outside
So now I’m literally ready for winter storage each time I take my boat out of the water the last few outings of the year.
 
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