2016 ar190 head change getting check engine light

[cc580]

I have a 2016 ar 190 with 370 hrs on it that was smoking. I brought it to a dealership who told me that it had a cracked head. it was running well other than the smoke. the dealership gave me a high price to fix it because they were going to use all Yamaha new part. I purchased a used complete head assemble on eBay that has 85 hrs on it. I installed the head with the engine in the boat and disconnected the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold bolts and left everything on the intake and exhaust assembled. I set the cams on the timing marks and set #1 cylinder at tdc with a dial indicator. when I started it up it ran rough and the check engine light came on. I thought I must have messed up the cam timing so I checked it and it is spot on. I have a maptuner x and I checked the error codes and the error codes are.

224 cam position sensor
241 engine management
240
52
1 overheat
131 accelerator position
3 ecu
49 over cooling

where do I start with these codes?

 

[zipper]

@Neutron may have some insight on those codes.

 

[anmut]

Would it be safe to say that you most likely got check engine and codes because the intake and exhaust weren't on the motor?

 

[Neutron]

At first thought seeing so many codes i would think its a voltage or ground issue for the harness.
Double check the harness and connectors. If it isn't a wiring issue then start with the ecu codes and go from there. One is most likely causing all

 

[cc580]

anmut i didn't start it with the manifolds off i was just posting the fact that i didn't take them all apart and remove the throttle body and the the sensors so they shouldn't be having issues.

neutron are you saying to pull the plugs on the ecu and fuse box to look for corrosion? can I add a ground to test that theory? are there volt meter tests I can run?

when I raced the 2 stroke jet skis I always ran a 2nd ground to the electric box

 

[Neutron]

anmut i didn't start it with the manifolds off i was just posting the fact that i didn't take them all apart and remove the throttle body and the the sensors so they shouldn't be having issues.

neutron are you saying to pull the plugs on the ecu and fuse box to look for corrosion? can I add a ground to test that theory? are there volt meter tests I can run?

when I raced the 2 stroke jet skis I always ran a 2nd ground to the electric box

Adding a ground wont help, if its a ground issue you need to find out what is not grounded.
If you have the manual use it for reference and check your wiring diagram. The manual will also show how to test components.
You caused this problem so go over everything you touched

 

[cc580]

neutron I went over the engine a bunch of times looking for the cause. there is also the possibility that the dealership disconnected something to diagnose it

 

[cc580]

neutron can elaborate on how i would find out what is not grounded. i dont have a service manual on the boat

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

neutron I went over the engine a bunch of times looking for the cause. there is also the possibility that the dealership disconnected something to diagnose it

Then there should be some connectors that are not connected

 

[Neutron]

neutron can elaborate on how i would find out what is not grounded. i dont have a service manual on the boat

You need a service manual. Without it you are chasing your tail. Replacing a head without it is not ideal

 

[drewkaree]

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Not sure why you didn't pick up a service manual when you were on ebay, for a job like this

Regardless, you're now at the point of definitely needing one, as something wasn't done according to Hoyle. All those lights and codes are proof of that.

Reading through the process once you get the manual, and you should be able to pinpoint what needs to be done, that either wasn't, or wasn't done in accordance with the expected methods

Good luck

 

[cc580]

I have the wiring diagram. so here is what I have cleaned and tested. battery is 2 months old and is at 12.8 volts. I have a fish finder on the dash reading 12.6 volts. I cleaned the battery terminals, the shut off switch posts and the starter solenoid post. I traced the positive and negative wires that run up to the dash and there was 2 plugs that they went through which I checked and there was no corrosion in the plugs. I tested voltage at the fuse box lug and at the starter solenoid and got 12.8. I tested resistance from the negative battery terminals to an engine bolt and got 0. I tested resistance from the positive battery terminal to the starter solenoid and got 0. I started it up again and got 10 error codes some the same and some different than last time. the codes were

240
241
248
224
52
2
249
1
137
142

anyone have any suggestions of what I should test next?

 

[Neutron]

Did you get a service manual and start testing the components that those coded represent?
Some of those codes dont exist in the code list charts. Some are related to going in limp mode.