Battery tender vs onboard battery charger.

[Bucky Boater]

Thanks. Service manual ordered. Yes, I have power in the garage. Prior owner changed oil after last season (and it looked good), but I’ll pick up the kit and evacuator, thanks. I forgot to ask about the last time they changed plugs, but it turned over right away. I’ll keep an eye on that.

 

[Thermobrett]

Thanks. Service manual ordered. Yes, I have power in the garage. Prior owner changed oil after last season (and it looked good), but I’ll pick up the kit and evacuator, thanks. I forgot to ask about the last time they changed plugs, but it turned over right away. I’ll keep an eye on that.

This is the oil/filter kit I use off of Amazon and the plugs I put in.

Yamaha OEM Oil Change Kit FX HO SHO SVHO FZR FZS VXR VXS GP1800 - LUB-WTRCG-KT-10 Amazon.com

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug LFR7AIX # 2309 PK4 Amazon.com

 

[Bucky Boater]

Thank you! I’m looking at the recommended battery now. I’m not sure what I expected jut it to be, but know I did not expect it to cost $2300. Wow.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thank you! I’m looking at the recommended battery now. I’m not sure what I expected jut it to be, but know I did not expect it to cost $2300. Wow.

$2300.00?!! or $230?

For some reason these engines seem to be sensitive to spark plugs not being up to snuff, could be the high revs, dunno, there’s quite a few threads here where people solved a plethora of issues just by changing plugs. Make sure the plugs are gapped correctly!

When you do an oil change, do not assume you need to put in the specified amount of oil the manual states. Sometimes you don’t get all the oil out you think you did, that’s why it’s important to have a graduated receiver so you can see how much oil comes out. Then when you fill with new oil, leave out say 500 cc’s / .5 liters then check the level to verify the level is good. Then start it on the hose and let it idle for 5 mins, then let it sit for 5 mins and recheck.

IMPORTANT! When running the boat on the hose, START the ENGINE FIRST and let it stabilize, then turn on the water.

Then when done turn OFF the WATER FIRST then turn off the engine.

To do otherwise will let water enter a cylinder and you could hydraulic a cylinder and wreck your engine.

 

[Bucky Boater]

Thanks. The recommended battery, Dakota Lithium 135 AH 24 volt is $2399.00 on their site. There’s another version for $1200, but different specs.
And thanks, I’ve been warned about out of sequence engine running out of water. It seems like a mistake only made once. It also seems like a two person job since the engine isn’t supposed to be run out of water for long either. But this got me thinking. Probably a dumb question, but if you ever broke down and got towed, wouldn’t water run in the same way and do the same damage?

 

[Thermobrett]

I have a flush kit since I run in saltwater. Came with a selector valve so I can start the engine flip the cable and flush water / salt off and then kill the water and then shut lithe boat off by myself.
I think there are some threads on the site that say what hose needs to be “crimped” off in the event you are towed. Maybe do a quick search on that.

 

[Bucky Boater]

Hoping never to be towed, just occurred to me when the guy I bought it from told me the engine/water hose sequence. Makes sense there’s a hose that must be crimped for an on water tow.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

That’s the clamp you need. I keep them in my tool bag just in case. On eBay water craft tow clamp or something like that

 

[Bucky Boater]

Thank you!

 

[HangOutdoors]

I bought these off of amazon. They rachet and are fast to clamp. Whats nice is you can use them to clamp all sorts of things quickly if needed.

GEARWRENCH Automatic Locking Ratcheting Hose Pinch Off Pliers - 145 - Snap Ring Pliers - Amazon.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks. The recommended battery, Dakota Lithium 135 AH 24 volt is $2399.00 on their site. There’s another version for $1200, but different specs.
And thanks, I’ve been warned about out of sequence engine running out of water. It seems like a mistake only made once. It also seems like a two person job since the engine isn’t supposed to be run out of water for long either. But this got me thinking. Probably a dumb question, but if you ever broke down and got towed, wouldn’t water run in the same way and do the same damage?

Just get a group 24 dual purpose battery for now and see how it works out for you. Heck the one in the bost might be okay for this season. Take it to an auto parts have then charge it and then test it for you. Just get a jump pack.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks. The recommended battery, Dakota Lithium 135 AH 24 volt is $2399.00 on their site. There’s another version for $1200, but different specs.
And thanks, I’ve been warned about out of sequence engine running out of water. It seems like a mistake only made once. It also seems like a two person job since the engine isn’t supposed to be run out of water for long either. But this got me thinking. Probably a dumb question, but if you ever broke down and got towed, wouldn’t water run in the same way and do the same damage?

This is the one I was thinking of….currently on sale for $1189

DL+ 12V 135Ah Dual Purpose 1000CCA LiFePO4 Battery

DL+ 12v 135Ah LiFePO4 Golf Cart & 1000CCA Automotive Battery. Marine & Automotive Compatibility. 135 Amp Hours of deep cycle Dakota Lithium performance.

dakotalithium.com

 

[HangOutdoors]

Why would you spend that much an a single LiFePo4 battery for that application. Why not a nice TPPL AGM for less than half the price? Unless I missed something.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Why would you spend that much an a single LiFePo4 battery for that application. Why not a nice TPPL AGM for less than half the price? Unless I missed something.

From post #15 of this thread. I believe the last sentence addresses your comment.



I don’t know how you are intending to use your boat, but If you want the most capacity for the single battery you have, Dakota Lithium makes a 135 Ah group 24 size dual purpose battery that will drop in your stock battery box. That’s more than double the capacity of a 70 Ah group 24 lead acid battery, 35 Ah @50% discharge for the lead acid vs. 108 Ah @80% discharge for the DL battery, they are expensive but worth it, unless you are going to put in some zoot sound system, with the DL battery you would never have to worry about draining that battery down. As I said they are expensive but over their lifetime they are also much cheaper than lead acid batteries. Having said that, if you need a battery, buy the least expensive dual purpose flooded lead acid battery from say Interstate, these are the lowest cost per watt hour. If you want the cleanest set up in a lead acid battery then get an interstate dual purpose AGM battery.

 

[HangOutdoors]

and there you have it....... I didn't read everything

 

[HangOutdoors]

Not sure if you saw this. Good write up on single battery.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/agm-tppl-charging-test.28407/

 

[Bucky Boater]

Thanks. I read it, but it seemed the guy was solving for a problem I don’t have (wanting to leave the boat/battery at a slip without power all season). My boat will either be in a garage or at our pier, both with power. I’m not afraid to buy what I need, but I’m wondering if this is beyond my needs. Or maybe not. Just don’t know yet…

 

[Bucky Boater]

This is the oil/filter kit I use off of Amazon and the plugs I put in.

Yamaha OEM Oil Change Kit FX HO SHO SVHO FZR FZS VXR VXS GP1800 - LUB-WTRCG-KT-10 Amazon.com

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug LFR7AIX # 2309 PK4 Amazon.com

Do you have to gap these plugs or are they pre-set? Thanks

 

[HangOutdoors]

Do you have to gap these plugs or are they pre-set? Thanks

They indicate that they all come pregapped. With that being said, you should check the gap on each and every plug before installed. The manufacturer set gaps can be off and many times they are found to be off.

 

[Bucky Boater]

Thanks. Another tool to get that I should have had already I guess.