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Dual Batteries and Stereo Upgrade on AR190

HuevoSplash

Active Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
3
Points
32
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2014
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
19
I have been reading a lot of threads on this and other pages and some of it has been extremely helpful and some of it has just caused more confusion for me. I have used that information to add a battery to my 2014 AR190 and a Blue Sea 9001e Switch for battery isolation and also adding a Noco GenPro 10x2 Dual Bank Charger. I don't mind switching between batteries and really do not spend enough time running the boat around for the stator to charge more than the starting battery, so no need for an ACR. We are cruise for a bit then drop anchor, hang out, drink and listen to music on the water type people.

That said, my current setup looks like this.

The first thing I am trying to figure out is why I lose things like presets on my stereo head unit when I turn the switch to the Off position while the Clock seems to keep it's settings. My first thought is that the clock has a battery backup in this particular stereo, but the other settings do not, so I was thinking my best option would be to run a 12G fused line directly from the Deep Cycle Battery to the 12V Constant wire on the Stereo head unit like below, but I am not sure if there would be any issue with doing that due to the charger and for any other reason I am not thinking of. Thoughts?

The bigger challenge is cleanly installing the upgraded amps, speakers and subs. Below is what I was thinking about doing, but I wanted to get some input from some people on here that I am sure are far more knowledgeable that I am with this stuff. I have done plenty of car stereo upgrades in my day, but never done anything on a boat, and never anything on a vehicle with 2 batteries and a switch.

All that being said, please let me know if I am off base and where, I will not take offense at all. This is all based on my limited knowledge and what I have gleaned from reading through a ton of threads on here and other sites. I appreciate any guidance you can provide, even if it is "Hey Jackwagon, take it to someone who knows what they are doing!".
 
So the first thing that jumps out at me is the 10G wire running to the amps, in my experience you do not want to step down the wire going to the amps for best results. I would also not run your amps off of the fuse panel. Running a dedicated bus bar for the stereo will be the best way to go, use 4G coming off of the bat switch to a breaker (rating would need to be calculated by your total load, maybe 200a?), then power the HU and amps from that bus, use 4G for the amps. It is also a good idea to have a dedicated ground bus for the stereo equipment, this will prevent any hissing or unwanted noise caused by other electrical equipment, use 4G for this bus.

I'm not quite sure why the head unit is having problems, are you still using the stock HU? Overall the system looks good.
 
We are the same kind of people "cruise for a bit then drop anchor, hang out, drink and listen to music ". With that said your dual battery looks great, but I agree with JBehrens on the amps 100%
 
Thanks JBehrens and watdog. Good know about the step-down on wire gauge for the amps.
 
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