Looking to add a sub

[Jerlane]

I am looking to add some bass to my system without breaking the bank. I don’t really want to sacrifice a lot of storage space with a big sub box. I was thinking about placing a bazooka sub in the helm, but have read mixed reviews of bazookas. I’m considering an IB sub behind or next to the captains seat. Here’s one combo I’m looking at. I’d like to keep the budget to around $300 or so for a sub and amp.

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 Ω

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 ΩMX-Series 10-inch Marine Subwoofer Driver for Infinite-Baffle Use (...

creativeaudio.net

10” JL 10IB3

2-Channel Marine Amplifiers

Save big on 2-channel marine amplifiers here at HiFiSoundConnection.com. In stock and ready to ship.

www.hifisoundconnection.com

2 channel kicker amp rated at 150w bridged at 4ohms.

any thoughts on this combo? I’m not looking to kill any fish, just want full sound and a little bump.

 

[2kwik4u]

I'm looking to add something similar to our setup. I'm pretty happy with the soundbar, and stock head unit. Already upgraded the stock speakers to Polk DB651s's (taken from someone upgrading a 242).

Anywho, the only advice I have is to check the space where you want to mount the IB sub for depth. I thought I was going to put mine near the footwell of the drive, on the starboard side. When I climbed in there to measure I didn't have the depth I needed to mount the sub there, so I had to rethink my approach.

Pretty certain I'm going to pull the trigger on something this spring, just haven't had the time to research exactly what I want, and where to buy. I will say CreativeAudio has some great customer service. We bought our refurbished soundbar from them, and it was a painless transaction, and they didn't ship one part. They quickly got it out to us via UPS red when we asked. Super cool folks there.

 

[Dean P]

I am looking to add some bass to my system without breaking the bank. I don’t really want to sacrifice a lot of storage space with a big sub box. I was thinking about placing a bazooka sub in the helm, but have read mixed reviews of bazookas. I’m considering an IB sub behind or next to the captains seat. Here’s one combo I’m looking at. I’d like to keep the budget to around $300 or so for a sub and amp.

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 Ω

JL Audio MX10IB3-CG-WH: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver White Classic Grilles 4 ΩMX-Series 10-inch Marine Subwoofer Driver for Infinite-Baffle Use (...

creativeaudio.net

10” JL 10IB3

2-Channel Marine Amplifiers

Save big on 2-channel marine amplifiers here at HiFiSoundConnection.com. In stock and ready to ship.

www.hifisoundconnection.com

2 channel kicker amp rated at 150w bridged at 4ohms.

any thoughts on this combo? I’m not looking to kill any fish, just want full sound and a little bump.

I bought my 2015 new and upgraded the sound system. This is where they put the sub. The amp was on the port side (inside the cubby).

 

[Tobes]

I would go with the M series sub instead of the MX. I went with the M and its nice and clean with good bass, but I could probably go with another one and not be overpowered. I am pushing 300w to a M10. I am also using the IB sub.

I also cut the hole and mounted mine where Dean did. I originally had a Type R (300w RMS) and the M10 was an upgrade for sure. Luckily, I got it new second hand and it was much cheaper than buying it brand new.

 

[Dean P]

I would go with the M series sub instead of the MX. I went with the M and its nice and clean with good bass, but I could probably go with another one and not be overpowered. I am pushing 300w to a M10. I am also using the IB sub.

I also cut the hole and mounted mine where Dean did. I originally had a Type R (300w RMS) and the M10 was an upgrade for sure. Luckily, I got it new second hand and it was much cheaper than buying it brand new.

I've been lucky with refurb stuff too...

 

[Tobes]

I've been lucky with refurb stuff too...

Oh no, this wasn't refurd. Brand new M10 on OfferUp from a guy. If I remember right.. $160? I think.

 

[Dean P]

Oh no, this wasn't refurd. Brand new M10 on OfferUp from a guy. If I remember right.. $160? I think.

Sorry, I wasn't implying it was. I meant it as another option.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I run 2 of the JLs, it is a great sub. Just remember to brace it, I used a starboard ring on the backside for this.

 

[jocolo21]

here you go bass bundle

 

[2kwik4u]

here you go bass bundle

That's amazing. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Tobes]

here you go bass bundle

Never understand this.... JL subs are strong and can take more power than rated for. That amp/sub pairing is horrible. 160w @ 4ohm RMS amp with a 200w @ 4ohm RMS sub.......... Horrible "bundle" IMO.

 

[jocolo21]

Never understand this.... JL subs are strong and can take more power than rated for. That amp/sub pairing is horrible. 160w @ 4ohm RMS amp with a 200w @ 4ohm RMS sub.......... Horrible "bundle" IMO.

I have blown plenty of JL and Memphis, only ones I haven’t blown is WS, but if you read above “without breaking the bank”, is the key word, sure you can do what I do drop a pair of 700/5 for $650 each and top of the line subs for $3-600 each but that’s not what he is looking for. No everyone is audiophile like us.

 

[Jerlane]

I appreciate everyone’s input so far. I love good sound, but I can only justify so much for this purpose. If I was boating all year, I might be able to stretch it further.

I'm all ears if anyone has other suggestions closer to my price range. Thanks!

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

I have blown plenty of JL and Memphis, only ones I haven’t blown is WS, but if you read above “without breaking the bank”, is the key word, sure you can do what I do drop a pair of 700/5 for $650 each and top of the line subs for $3-600 each but that’s not what he is looking for. No everyone is audiophile like us.

Blowing subs is user/install error 99% of the time. Brand has almost nothing to do with it. The WS may have more tolerance for abuse (and will eventually fail as well), but in a proper install with proper use, none of them should blow. Blown subwoofers are caused by heat, which that level of heat is caused by clipping. Clipping is created by incorrect gain settings and the user pushing the volume past that point.

I agree with @Tobes , that bundle isn't a great solution. In relation to above, blown subs typically occur with underpowering due to the user trying to turn it up louder, when it reality they are just clipping the sub. Having overhead is very useful here.

OP: A $300 budget is really tight for a sub/amp combo, let alone marine rated stuff. Without going to some off brand like Rockville, I would suggest going the used route to stick to your budget. Also please note you probably are going to need put some money aside for wiring as well.

 

[Jgorm]

I put a 10" jl sub next to them drivers seat with a rokcville amp. Sounds awesome. I think i bought the sub used on here for 100 and another hundred bucks for the amp. I have pictures in my jgorms ar230 build thread.

 

[2kwik4u]

In relation to above, blown subs typically occur with underpowering due to the user trying to turn it up louder, when it reality they are just clipping the sub. Having overhead is very useful here.

Forgive my ignorance here. Overhead in what? Sub capacity? Amp Capacity?

Seems like that combo setup is decently paired. If I was choosing components without tons of experience or industry knowledge it looks like two decently paired units from a reputable brand.

Sub rated for 50-200w RMS @4ohm of power of consumption
Amp that delivers 160W RMS @ 4ohm.

How would one match that any better? If you have the time, what amp would you pair with that sub, and likewise what sub would you pair with that amp? Am I missing some basic "derating" theory or something? Genuinely curious here, not attempting to be combative.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Forgive my ignorance here. Overhead in what? Sub capacity? Amp Capacity?

Seems like that combo setup is decently paired. If I was choosing components without tons of experience or industry knowledge it looks like two decently paired units from a reputable brand.

Sub rated for 50-200w RMS @4ohm of power of consumption
Amp that delivers 160W RMS @ 4ohm.

How would one match that any better? If you have the time, what amp would you pair with that sub, and likewise what sub would you pair with that amp? Am I missing some basic "derating" theory or something? Genuinely curious here, not attempting to be combative.

Overhead in power.

Power ratings very deceiving, especially when they put a range like that. Will the sub work? Absolutely. Will it be playing to its potential? No.

At minimum, I would match the highest available RMS. So a 1 for 1 match would be an amp that does 200w RMS @ 4 ohms and vice versa (find a 4-ohm sub with a max RMS rating under 160 rms OR a 2 ohm sub under 300 RMS). For real world example, I use two JL IB10s with a Kicker PXA500.1 (250watts to each sub). For JL amp listed, the Wet Sounds Revo 10IB in the 2ohm model is a perfect 1for1 match.

I always recommend overhead in power, it not only increases your dynamic range but also decreases a common user from clipping. (People often think it is not loud enough, so they turn up the gain or volume past what it should be and then poof goes the speaker). Speakers are built with abuse in mind, and can typically handle the extra power no problem (you can usually give a subwoofer quite a bit over RMS, as long as it is clean power, and your enclosure isn't designed to make it super efficient). Music is dynamic, so it will rarely ever see the full potential, but when it needs it - you will be satisfied. All the reasoning for over head can get pretty in-depth so I will leave it here for now.

 

[jocolo21]

Blowing subs is user/install error 99% of the time. Brand has almost nothing to do with it. The WS may have more tolerance for abuse (and will eventually fail as well), but in a proper install with proper use, none of them should blow. Blown subwoofers are caused by heat, which that level of heat is caused by clipping. Clipping is created by incorrect gain settings and the user pushing the volume past that point.

I agree with @Tobes , that bundle isn't a great solution. In relation to above, blown subs typically occur with underpowering due to the user trying to turn it up louder, when it reality they are just clipping the sub. Having overhead is very useful here.

OP: A $300 budget is really tight for a sub/amp combo, let alone marine rated stuff. Without going to some off brand like Rockville, I would suggest going the used route to stick to your budget. Also please note you probably are going to need put some money aside for wiring as well.

Never said i was a pro installer, i will pump power thru it until it blows then? i buy another, but what i know with the same power which its not out of this world, less than 300 watts same rated subs at 4ohms the only ones that handle it was a wet sound , so how its that user error? People will always open their mouth without know the condition or rigging, even tho im not a pro installer been doing my own system for 35 years, boats cars etc even SXS.

 

[Adrian @ JB Solutions]

Never said i was a pro installer, i will pump power thru it until it blows then? i buy another, but what i know with the same power which its not out of this world, less than 300 watts same rated subs at 4ohms the only ones that handle it was a wet sound , so how its that user error? People will always open their mouth without know the condition or rigging, even tho im not a pro installer been doing my own system for 35 years, boats cars etc even SXS.

I am not sure what the question is here. At 300 watts pretty much any subwoofer can handle that power, given it is clean. If they are blowing it is more than likely the coil is burning up for clipping. Basic explanation of clipping: Music Clipping: How To Avoid It | MTX Audio - Serious About Sound®.

 

[Tobes]

Depending upon your boating conditions, may not even need to run a marine amp. I run marine speakers but I don't have a marine amp (and I have 3). No issues (one amp @ 4 years, one @ 3 years, one @ 2 years old). I live in Vegas though where we have a very dry climate so even in the summer, the boat is dry by the time I get to the garage (inside). No humidity to contend with.