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Need real results feedback please!!

jet boat joe

Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Points
10
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
195S
Boat Length
19
Hello my fellow jet boats. I just purchased a 2020 Yamaha AR195S and want to know what I can do to increase the top in speed. Mechanically! I know shedding weight and all that, but what can I do to hit over 55mph?? Thanks for any honest and helpful feedback.
 
Search up SamCfs modification thread. I think he got an SX192 to almost 60. No tower or bimini, lots of engine mods, custom nozzle, impeller changes. Swatski got his SX190 into the mid 50's but he had to baby the throttle to get on plane.

I'll find the thread once I'm back to a keyboard.
 
@Babin Farms Thanks for the tag-in.

@jet boat joe Short answer is that there isn't a "stage" style recipe for going faster in the 19ft boats (or any of the Yamaha boats for that matter). Everything is much closer to a "one off" modification than anything. Lots and lots of "guess and check" sort of work.

Have a look at these threads for inspiration.



https://jetboaters.net/threads/adjustable-trim-and-directional-reverse-bucket-install.17569/ <--If I remember right, the trim helped pick up speed for Sam.


https://jetboaters.net/threads/maptuner-x-192.17574/ <--Some discussion on MapTunerX

Not sure you're going to get an AR195 into the 60's without significant work. Appears the hull is stable at that speed, just a matter of both generating the power, as well as getting it transmitted to the water. Lots and Lots of work, with marginal gains at every step. Definitely have to get a tune to raise the rev limiter, anybody with any serious speed has that. Boosted guys are all running aftermarket intercoolers, tunes, modified impellers, and lots of little tweaks along the way. In particular, that second thread has most of the 19ft speed players in it. It's a rabbit hole of reading, but going through the post history of those fast guys will get you a LOT of the details you're looking for.

Keep in mind that bow loading is absurdly influential in the speed a 19ft hull makes. Adding weight to the bow does two things; 1. It adversely affects the direction of the thrust on the hull. Put the bow down and the thrust points slightly more "up" than "back". Driving the bow further into the water. 2. Increases wetted surface. More boat in the water, generally, means a better ride, but more drag. I've seen as much as 4mph drop by moving 300lbs of people from the stern to the bow, with otherwise similar loading. I also have the best holeshot and tubing experience with most of the "people weight" in the stern seats, everything else being equal. You're likely to find a few mph by just ensuring you're well balanced fore/aft.

If you really want speed from a Yamaha jet boat, your best bet (IMO) is to find an older 210SS. These had the twin 1.8L engines with a short windshield and no tower in a small 21ft hull, or look into a 212S from the '12-'18 era, also twin 1.8L in a 22ft hull. Those are the two "easiest" setups to go fast while maintaining the gold seal durability Yamaha is known for. As best I can recall, the SS was tickling the 60mph mark bone stock, and the 212S will readily get you into the mid 50's bone stock. Lots of value in that kind of speed with zero modifications.

Coming from a life of modifying and generally monkeying around with all things mechanical. The further you move away from stock, the more likely you are to have unplanned downtime. Keep that in mind if your boat is used for family time. It's one thing to suffer a failure while out with your buddies, it's something entirely different to endure that with a wife/kids/in-laws aboard. Being on a boat makes that amplified as help is often much more than just a crappy hike home away. Just a bit of unsolicited advice from an aging gearhead. With that said, sounds like fun if you have the time and budget to make it happen. SamCF ran into this problem here.

Finally......I've always thought it would be neat to find a 212S, and modify it with twin SVHO supercharged engines and the appropriate supporting mods. I suspect we would find that easily into the 65mph range, if not more. No idea if the hull would hold up under that kind of speed, but I'm just waiting for someone that's bored with a big budget to get that done!
 
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Quickest and cheapest way is to ride in the boat while trailering down the highway. Grab a beer, jam the tunes and enjoy!
 
@Babin Farms Thanks for the tag-in.

@jet boat joe Short answer is that there isn't a "stage" style recipe for going faster in the 19ft boats (or any of the Yamaha boats for that matter). Everything is much closer to a "one off" modification than anything. Lots and lots of "guess and check" sort of work.

Have a look at these threads for inspiration.



Adjustable Trim and Directional Reverse Bucket Install <--If I remember right, the trim helped pick up speed for Sam.


Maptuner X 192 <--Some discussion on MapTunerX

Not sure you're going to get an AR195 into the 60's without significant work. Appears the hull is stable at that speed, just a matter of both generating the power, as well as getting it transmitted to the water. Lots and Lots of work, with marginal gains at every step. Definitely have to get a tune to raise the rev limiter, anybody with any serious speed has that. Boosted guys are all running aftermarket intercoolers, tunes, modified impellers, and lots of little tweaks along the way. In particular, that second thread has most of the 19ft speed players in it. It's a rabbit hole of reading, but going through the post history of those fast guys will get you a LOT of the details you're looking for.

Keep in mind that bow loading is absurdly influential in the speed a 19ft hull makes. Adding weight to the bow does two things; 1. It adversely affects the direction of the thrust on the hull. Put the bow down and the thrust points slightly more "up" than "back". Driving the bow further into the water. 2. Increases wetted surface. More boat in the water, generally, means a better ride, but more drag. I've seen as much as 4mph drop by moving 300lbs of people from the stern to the bow, with otherwise similar loading. I also have the best holeshot and tubing experience with most of the "people weight" in the stern seats, everything else being equal. You're likely to find a few mph by just ensuring you're well balanced fore/aft.

If you really want speed from a Yamaha jet boat, your best bet (IMO) is to find an older 210SS. These had the twin 1.8L engines with a short windshield and no tower in a small 21ft hull, or look into a 212S from the '12-'18 era, also twin 1.8L in a 22ft hull. Those are the two "easiest" setups to go fast while maintaining the gold seal durability Yamaha is known for. As best I can recall, the SS was tickling the 60mph mark bone stock, and the 212S will readily get you into the mid 50's bone stock. Lots of value in that kind of speed with zero modifications.

Coming from a life of modifying and generally monkeying around with all things mechanical. The further you move away from stock, the more likely you are to have unplanned downtime. Keep that in mind if your boat is used for family time. It's one thing to suffer a failure while out with your buddies, it's something entirely different to endure that with a wife/kids/in-laws aboard. Being on a boat makes that amplified as help is often much more than just a crappy hike home away. Just a bit of unsolicited advice from an aging gearhead. With that said, sounds like fun if you have the time and budget to make it happen. SamCF ran into this problem here.

Finally......I've always thought it would be neat to find a 212S, and modify it with twin SVHO supercharged engines and the appropriate supporting mods. I suspect we would find that easily into the 65mph range, if not more. No idea if the hull would hold up under that kind of speed, but I'm just waiting for someone that's bored with a big budget to get that done!
Thank you for your insight. I thought maybe ribbon delete and upgraded air intake might do some justice but not sure and don't want to waste the money if not.
 
Thank you for your insight. I thought maybe ribbon delete and upgraded air intake might do some justice but not sure and don't want to waste the money if not.

Where are you boating at?
Altitude?
Fresh or salt water?
Temperature?

Those factors impact your engines performance especially altitude, temp, humidity. Helping to correct for the aforementioned makes a difference but not enough to get you over 55.

Speaking of which;
what’s your top speed right now?
What was the fuel and cargo load?
What rpm is your engine turning at WOT?

The quickest and easiest way to add a little bit of rpm’s if you’re not already maxed out is with a K&N style drop in air filter. That gave my TR-1’s 200 more rpm. Maybe $80

If you’re not getting peak rpm then an impeller re pitch will address that and get your engine to peak rpm and max hp and a few mph. Around $150 from RIVA. EDIT; This assumes that your plugs are good, oil level correct and air filter is clean / clear.

A lot of people report gains with the ribbon delete, I don’t think this is worth the juice is worth the squeeze unless you change the oem air filter to a K&N style. Riva likes to say big gains but doesn’t provide any substantiative data to back it up. It’s not clear if the ribbon delete decreases restriction or removes the smooth air flow and the air begins to tumble without the ribbon in place which causes better mixing of the fuel and air.

And don’t sacrifice the water ingestion protection of your oem air box for a cone style K&N filter that bolts to end of the intake, again no substantiative data to support doing this and you’re just pulling in engine compartment air.

There are a couple of simple tuners you can get that will increase the pulse width of the injectors to add fuel, up to 10% more fuel. Your epa legal engine tune is lean.

Check out Brian Crower cams to go a bit deeper into the engine, cams and head work. I’m looking at BC cams and the ribbon delete to increase the volumetric efficiency which should yield 15%, then add some fuel to add another 10% for a total of 25% increase which is just below the rated power of the Viper variant which has 140 hp.

So the easiest way to get the max performance from your engine is to go with the K&N air filter first and see where your rpm’s are at, if not close to max get the impeller re pitched. Make sure your plugs are new and properly gapped, oil level correct.
 
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Thank you for your insight. I thought maybe ribbon delete and upgraded air intake might do some justice but not sure and don't want to waste the money if not.
There are folks (like SamCF referened above) who want to mod these boats to wring out every ounce of performance. It's a challenge and a fun project for them, and to that I say "right-on". I like to follow those threads and find them interesting and informative. If you fall into that category, so long as you can afford it, "waste of money" doesn't factor into it.

On the other hand, if you really are just looking to go 55 just for the sake of going 55, it's almost certainly going to be a waste of money. First, unless you are on a still lake, it ranges from no fun to miserable depending on sea state. My experience is mostly the Chesapeake and SW FLA, and though my boats will push 50, I can count on one hand the number of times that it was practical to operate WOT for any extended length of time. And that over a period of decades. Second, if you are on a still lake, going places far away is not as likely part of the agenda, and going no place fast isn't cost effective. Finally, as mentioned above, in spite of a methodical process and the best of intentions, heavily modified boats are going to break down. If you're into it, it's the price of admission, but you won't likely get the reliability of a stock boat.

My "go-place" speed is almost always between 22 and 30 and limited by what the water is doing and passenger comfort. Sure, there are evenings coming home up river where it's calm and I can open it up for 5 minutes and hit 45 or 50. An extra 5 mph for 5 minutes once a month would be tough to justify in economic terms even if I could just throw a hundred dollar bill in the gas tank and get the extra speed.
 
Where are you boating at?
Altitude?
Fresh or salt water?
Temperature?

Those factors impact your engines performance especially altitude, temp, humidity. Helping to correct for the aforementioned makes a difference but not enough to get you over 55.

Speaking of which;
what’s your top speed right now?
What was the fuel and cargo load?
What rpm is your engine turning at WOT?

The quickest and easiest way to add a little bit of rpm’s if you’re not already maxed out is with a K&N style drop in air filter. That gave my TR-1’s 200 more rpm. Maybe $80

If you’re not getting peak rpm then an impeller re pitch will address that and get your engine to peak rpm and max hp and a few mph. Around $150 from RIVA. EDIT; This assumes that your plugs are good, oil level correct and air filter is clean / clear.

A lot of people report gains with the ribbon delete, I don’t think this is worth the juice is worth the squeeze unless you change the oem air filter to a K&N style. Riva likes to say big gains but doesn’t provide any substantiative data to back it up. It’s not clear if the ribbon delete decreases restriction or removes the smooth air flow and the air begins to tumble without the ribbon in place which causes better mixing of the fuel and air.

And don’t sacrifice the water ingestion protection of your oem air box for a cone style K&N filter that bolts to end of the intake, again no substantiative data to support doing this and you’re just pulling in engine compartment air.

There are a couple of simple tuners you can get that will increase the pulse width of the injectors to add fuel, up to 10% more fuel. Your epa legal engine tune is lean.

Check out Brian Crower cams to go a bit deeper into the engine, cams and head work. I’m looking at BC cams and the ribbon delete to increase the volumetric efficiency which should yield 15%, then add some fuel to add another 10% for a total of 25% increase which is just below the rated power of the Viper variant which has 140 hp.

So the easiest way to get the max performance from your engine is to go with the K&N air filter first and see where your rpm’s are at, if not close to max get the impeller re pitched. Make sure your plugs are new and properly gapped, oil level correct.
I'm in Florida and like to go to the Halifax River and the inlet. So it's salt water with water temps in the 80 to 85 range. The boat will hit around 51 with just me and around 15gallons of gas. I'd like to hit 55 with three to 4 people on the boat if at all possible. I appreciate the feedback and will definitely upgrade the airfilter and did see a nice impeller on riva racing for about 600 bucks.
 
I'm in Florida and like to go to the Halifax River and the inlet. So it's salt water with water temps in the 80 to 85 range. The boat will hit around 51 with just me and around 15gallons of gas. I'd like to hit 55 with three to 4 people on the boat if at all possible. I appreciate the feedback and will definitely upgrade the airfilter and did see a nice impeller on riva racing for about 600 bucks.

Once you determine whether or not you actually need any impeller work or another impeller try these shops.

Leading edge impellers -Dave

Impros-Glen
 
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