Replaced my anchor locker drain fitting due to leaks

[jcb1977]

I'm also thinking about finding some sort of self-filling product to fill the bottom of the anchor locker up to the drain elevation. it's not much maybe an 1" or 2". thinking about flex seal paste or flex seal liquid to just pour down there and let it cure to fill that gap so water doesn't' collect

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I'm also thinking about finding some sort of self-filling product to fill the bottom of the anchor locker up to the drain elevation. it's not much maybe an 1" or 2". thinking about flex seal paste or flex seal liquid to just pour down there and let it cure to fill that gap so water doesn't' collect

Good idea! If you are a bit creative you could make the bottom slightly higher than the drain with a bit of a depression leading to the drain to promote even better draining… but just making it level with the drain would go a long ways to keeping that locker dryer.

 

[jcb1977]

Good idea! If you are a bit creative you could make the bottom slightly higher than the drain with a bit of a depression leading to the drain to promote even better draining… but just making it level with the drain would go a long ways to keeping that locker dryer.

I poured some flex seal liquid in the bottom of the locker as a filler so there's no room for water to remain. I think it's going to work out pretty well.

 

[Kaffi311]

Wow- newbie here w a 2023 FSH 222 Sport E. Just read this 8 page thread - and checked out our anchor locker. Our drain hole doesn't look as bad as some here- but drain still needs to be replaced as it does not reach all the way into the anchor locker. Our boat also has the clamshell cover on the outside. What is the current product link to get to complete this job? I am of course going to remove the drain and measure before ordering- but want to make sure I am getting the correct materials to accommodate this clamshell cover. Thanks !!!! Love (and already addicted to) this forum

 

[anmut]

I chased this for years, then just decided to silicon the hole completely shut. No more water issues.

 

[CarolinaJet]

This is the one I used on 2021 AR210 - not sure I know what you mean by clamshell cover though.

https://a.co/d/9ZJyZZe

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

This is the one I used on 2021 AR210 - not sure I know what you mean by clamshell cover though.

https://a.co/d/9ZJyZZe

OEM cheesey clamshell





Proper replacement clamshell style




I prefer this style….


Which enables you to use a plug


Because of where the drain is located on the inside I can’t use a plug like that on the inside. But keeping this drain fitting plugged with this stopper keeps water from flowing in and out of the anchor. The drain on my boat is very close to the water.



But what I observed even on the bow rider version of the 2020 21’ hull that @drewkaree has which has the drain higher up, when he accelerated to get up on plane I saw a full stream of water come out of the drain. To me it makes sense to keep this anchor locker drain plugged and pull it if needed to drain either after using the anchor or after washing or rain. This is even more important if you’re boating in waters with an AIS issue…then you don’t have to decontaminate your ground tackle if you didn’t use it. Otherwise your ground tackle will be wet every time you use your boat.

 

[jcb1977]

this the clamshell I replaced the OEM one with.......it was very close but did cover the three screw holes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1BW32K2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

 

[Acard7]

this the clamshell I replaced the OEM one with.......it was very close but did cover the three screw holes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C1BW32K2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Ordered this yesterday and plan to change it on our 24 252SE, noticed that indeed the current fitting does not go flush with the anchor locker itself. So thanks for providing pics and part numbers!

 

[Kaffi311]

Yes, this is what the 2024 FSH's currently have. It's just the small metal ring inserted in the hole and the clamshell cover on the outside. Pretty darn lame if you ask me! But at least it wasn't hard to get the metal piece out versus the plastic one they use to use for a drain. I'll be ordering the thru hull fitting that I can cap. I like that idea. The current metal fitting is 3/4".

 

[anmut]

@Yamaha wouldn’t it be better to put an internal drain that goes into the hull vs a hole at the waterline? I mean, how much water is an anchor bringing in??

 

[drewkaree]

@Yamaha wouldn’t it be better to put an internal drain that goes into the hull vs a hole at the waterline? I mean, how much water is an anchor bringing in??

This, right here, is the million dollar question. There's ZERO reason to add holes to a boat that allows water in, if you don't have a reason, and empirical evidence that you're not doing more harm than good. With the issues this one single solitary stupid idiotic fitting introduces (is my bias showing?), this should have been eliminated long ago, or actually addressed. The issue ISN'T that it's a plastic fitting, it's that an absolute shit fitting was used, with no attention to the fact that it often was improperly sized or cut short. Adding a metal sleeve doesn't fix the fact that it's not sealed, doesn't reach the interior, and it's an easy step to miss or ignore, sealing it up, in the manufacturing process.

Add to that, the production line seems to have days where the hole is drilled with precision, and other days someone is shooting off a 45 and happens to hit the spot where they think a drain might be useful, and that one stupid hole in the boat becomes a larger liability, and leaves a mess for an owner to address on their brand new boat.

This isn't IKEA furniture that's cheap and comes with certain expectations of quality and the need for immediate effort and attention by the owner, this is a severl-tens-of-thousands-of-dollars item, and it's not unreasonable to expect to not have to immediately fix/repair/replace a $5 fitting for such a stupid reason.

The REASON to use a metal fitting (and therefore a more expensive part, @Yamaha), is that, since you're having to fix this screw up, spend a minimal amount of money to UPGRADE this, rather than use plastic and have it deteriorate - as ALL plastic does in the sun - and have to replace this later on down the road, for yet another reminder that this is/was a problem that shouldn't have existed in the first place.

This forum should NOT be your R&D, but if you're going to use it as such, FFS pay attention and stop trying to save pennies and use a PROPER fitting that can be sealed off, plastic or otherwise.

 

[anmut]

This, right here, is the million dollar question. There's ZERO reason to add holes to a boat that allows water in, if you don't have a reason, and empirical evidence that you're not doing more harm than good. With the issues this one single solitary stupid idiotic fitting introduces (is my bias showing?), this should have been eliminated long ago, or actually addressed. The issue ISN'T that it's a plastic fitting, it's that an absolute shit fitting was used, with no attention to the fact that it often was improperly sized or cut short. Adding a metal sleeve doesn't fix the fact that it's not sealed, doesn't reach the interior, and it's an easy step to miss or ignore, sealing it up, in the manufacturing process.

Add to that, the production line seems to have days where the hole is drilled with precision, and other days someone is shooting off a 45 and happens to hit the spot where they think a drain might be useful, and that one stupid hole in the boat becomes a larger liability, and leaves a mess for an owner to address on their brand new boat.

This isn't IKEA furniture that's cheap and comes with certain expectations of quality and the need for immediate effort and attention by the owner, this is a severl-tens-of-thousands-of-dollars item, and it's not unreasonable to expect to not have to immediately fix/repair/replace a $5 fitting for such a stupid reason.

The REASON to use a metal fitting (and therefore a more expensive part, @Yamaha), is that, since you're having to fix this screw up, spend a minimal amount of money to UPGRADE this, rather than use plastic and have it deteriorate - as ALL plastic does in the sun - and have to replace this later on down the road, for yet another reminder that this is/was a problem that shouldn't have existed in the first place.

This forum should NOT be your R&D, but if you're going to use it as such, FFS pay attention and stop trying to save pennies and use a PROPER fitting that can be sealed off, plastic or otherwise.

Well put!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So, the height of the anchor locker drain is going to be dictated by where the bottom is. I for one would not want it draining into the hull, this defeats the purpose of having a self bailing deck. I’m new to this boating thing, only a 5 year veteran, but I’m amazed at how few boats have self bailing decks, even dedicated high end fishing boats don’t have self bailing decks. The largest amount of water that gets into the anchor locker, excluding the drain, is water from rain or washing, sure a good amount of water comes in on the anchor rode but not like rain or the hose.

Again, the height or bottom of the anchor locker bottom and its drain dictates where it comes out of the hull. The way I see it, the main problem is the drain fitting itself and, not the bad craftsmanship, the utter lack of it as witnessed by the way mine was from the factory, mine looked like the .45 ACP made the hole. The top cap and the hull are two separate pieces glued together, so I can see where the possibility exists of some flex in that area, but to date I have yet to see any yamaha boat with stress cracks in the anchor locker drain area that has done this modification, and in that area with all of those right angles and such I think the risk of flex is minimal, and the bow eye bolts come through into the anchor locker.

So the height of the drain being what it is, it is imperative to have a quality piece installed correctly and sealed correctly. This also goes along with other area’s that are not sealed up properly, cup holders, rod holder, their associated drains etc.. as well as the clean out tray.

Meh, its the way it is, and thankfully we have this forum and the ability to correct these things and have a dry bilge at the end of the day for about 1/3 the cost of a boat wherein you’d expect none this to be an issue. That doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be frustrating though.

 

[drewkaree]

and the bow eye bolts come through into the anchor locker.

So the height of the drain being what it is, it is imperative to have a quality piece installed correctly and sealed correctly.

@Yamaha this is the TL-DR version of what I said. Pay attention.

 

[anmut]

So, the height of the anchor locker drain is going to be dictated by where the bottom is. I for one would not want it draining into the hull, this defeats the purpose of having a self bailing deck. I’m new to this boating thing, only a 5 year veteran, but I’m amazed at how few boats have self bailing decks, even dedicated high end fishing boats don’t have self bailing decks. The largest amount of water that gets into the anchor locker, excluding the drain, is water from rain or washing, sure a good amount of water comes in on the anchor rode but not like rain or the hose.

Again, the height or bottom of the anchor locker bottom and its drain dictates where it comes out of the hull. The way I see it, the main problem is the drain fitting itself and, not the bad craftsmanship, the utter lack of it as witnessed by the way mine was from the factory, mine looked like the .45 ACP made the hole. The top cap and the hull are two separate pieces glued together, so I can see where the possibility exists of some flex in that area, but to date I have yet to see any yamaha boat with stress cracks in the anchor locker drain area that has done this modification, and in that area with all of those right angles and such I think the risk of flex is minimal, and the bow eye bolts come through into the anchor locker.

So the height of the drain being what it is, it is imperative to have a quality piece installed correctly and sealed correctly. This also goes along with other area’s that are not sealed up properly, cup holders, rod holder, their associated drains etc.. as well as the clean out tray.

Meh, its the way it is, and thankfully we have this forum and the ability to correct these things and have a dry bilge at the end of the day for about 1/3 the cost of a boat wherein you’d expect none this to be an issue. That doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be frustrating though.

For me the funniest part about the anchor locker drain is that the anchor locker isn't even setup properly to drain to start with. In order for that compartment to drain under normal use, it should be located on the lowest portion of the anchor locker and towards the rear (like all the other drains located within the boat...)

But Yamaha, in all their glory, said "nah, f that - let's put that drain slightly up from the anchor locker floor and push it out to the side, the captain will turn starboard eventually..."

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

For me the funniest part about the anchor locker drain is that the anchor locker isn't even setup properly to drain to start with. In order for that compartment to drain under normal use, it should be located on the lowest portion of the anchor locker and towards the rear (like all the other drains located within the boat...)

But Yamaha, in all their glory, said "nah, f that - let's put that drain slightly up from the anchor locker floor and push it out to the side, the captain will turn starboard eventually..."

@jcb1977 had a good solution in post #143 above..