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Wackerpaste

FSH 210 Sport

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
6,824
Reaction score
8,120
Points
482
Location
Tranquility Base
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
21
thought y’all might find this interesting…

 
I’ve used old fashioned anti seize to great effect so far….but I’m always on the look out for a better product.. might give this stuff a try in the spring. I like the fact I can / could get the plugs from JBP and a small sample of this product.
 
Anti seize has never let me down either...
 
WHERE CAN WE BUY jbp WAS NICE ENOUGH TO SELL ME SOME ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO BUY A TUBE ?
 
Actually NGK recommends not putting anything on the threads and the spark plug needs torqued correctly, not just snugging it. Does Yamaha put anything on the threads from the factory?


Straight from the NGK website.

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
 
Actually NGK recommends not putting anything on the threads and the spark plug needs torqued correctly, not just snugging it. Does Yamaha put anything on the threads from the factory?


Straight from the NGK website.

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
Yamaha does not put anyting on them from the factory but my dealer does and recommends it. I went to replace my plugs at 50 hours for the fist time when boat was 18 months old with factory plugs still installed. One plug broke off on Starboard engine. Dealer said Warranty would not cover since I was outside my first 12 months and YES would not cover since it does not cover maintenance items. I ended up paying $1200 to have the head removed from the dealer to remove. They said it was galvanic corrosion that caused so NGK's coating is a load of crap and I woudl not trust it. I will continue to use anti seize on any engine with aluminum heads.
 
This debate has come up so many times about anti seize and what NGK recommends. These boats absolutely need it its close to 25 years of removing spark plugs seasonally and never had a plug stuck or damaged from over torque. The issue comes from the exhaust chamber holding water that water stays in there for months the moist conditions allow water vapor to enter the cylinders. The motor must gravitate to stopping with cylinder 3 exhaust manifold being open the moisture attacks the threads on the plug creating corrosion. Recently I went to look at a boat for my brother the motor would not turn over I offered to remove the plugs to check to see if the impeller would rotate. All 3 plugs were harder than normal to remove cylinder 3 was frozen I put a lot of force it would not turn . The owner had a Ryobi battery impact wrench it had 3 settings the first 2 did nothing I put it on setting 3 that goes over 100 ft lbs and it started to rotate I then tried a regular rachet and it would not turn using a lot of force so went back to the impact and it finally came out. You could see the corrosion I was sure that plug was going to sheer off but luckily it didn’t
 
@rippler post is correct on torque magnification .. I appreciate your post!

I use a torque wrench at the minimum / stated torque spec. So far no issues.

When Wil applies the paste to the threads I like how he wiped of the threads using a paper towel, I do the same to prevent a build up down the well. You don’t need very much of this paste or anti seize, just a thin film.
 
Is this a solution to a problem that does not exist ? Copper anti-seize works just fine and is readily available everywhere vs. some super expensive tube of exotic German goo.
 
For those suggesting dry is OK (Ngk included) rust might be rare in dry environments, but where saltwater sprays, i think the benefits greatly outweigh any added risk.
 
Is this a solution to a problem that does not exist ? Copper anti-seize works just fine and is readily available everywhere vs. some super expensive tube of exotic German goo.

Im always on the lookout for a better product. Just like when I discovered Three Bond 1211, far superior to RTV silicone sealer.
 
Saw this post. Silicon Thermal Heat Transfer Paste is quite literally the same crap used on CPU's for computer to contact a heat sink. I would think a high quality anti-sieze would be a better idea here. just don't use too much.
 
I missed this thread when it was originally posted but, like @Ronnie, I had to click on it due to the title alone……….like a moth to the flame……
 
I have never used thread lube on spark plugs or lug nuts,
From the manual.


"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize."

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."
 
I missed this thread when it was originally posted but, like @Ronnie, I had to click on it due to the title alone……….like a moth to the flame……
That’s called an innate taxis response ….
 
I have never used thread lube on spark plugs or lug nuts,
From the manual.


"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize."

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."
In a marine environment with salt water, I think that plating probably doesn't do much l, especially if you leave your boat in a slip during the boating season. If you trailer your boat exclusively, that's probably a totally accurate statement.
 
For those suggesting dry is OK (Ngk included) rust might be rare in dry environments, but where saltwater sprays, i think the benefits greatly outweigh any added risk.

Have to agree weather dry or just a simple anti-seize paste will do. Most of us Yamaha nuts do an annual or bi annual plug change and dry is just fine for us. I just did my Nissan truck plugs that were installed dry in and aluminum head a100,000 miles 5 years in the Florida high humidly salt air,ect........came out dry just fine.

As for the changing plug everyone has an opinion and I will stick to Yamaha and NKG for my plugs...........I have owned boats and done all my Maintenace myself on marine for over 40 years. Hears my method!!!! giving the nod to Yamaha and NKG.........I set my toqure wrench to 18 ft lbs a small amount .4 ft ft lbs under toque. That was my starting point, I set the toque wrench at 12:00 o'clock and turned it down until it clicked at 18 ft lbs and she was at 12:30 which is an NKG 1/2 turn, Now in all fairness NKG also says on the box to turn 1/2 to 3/4 turn which would be a 12:00 noon to 9:00 o'clock...... it not an opinion when the torque wrench says 3/4 would be to much.

So their you have it a simple hand tight......... then a half turn with your wrench if you choose not to purchase a toque wrench.
 
All my plugs go in hand tight and then get a half turn with the wrench. By the time I spray the engine in fall, they're all nearly loose again.
 
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