Water in oil 2007 AR210 help!!

[danzr1]

I hope so. Hopefully have the boat out next week. Still waiting on a chain tensioner that needs to be replaced. I pressure tested everything, and everything held pressure for 2h

I'm having issues, I'm curious, when you say water in the engine, do you mean in the oil?

 

[danzr1]

If the exhaust gasket was breached, would water only enter the cylinder after the engine is shut off? I'm trying to diagnose my water in oil, that I only noticed after the winter. That engine was harder to start, wondering if water was entering the cylinder. Plugs all look dark, would one look cleaner than the rest if so, or would the piston? Trying to do easiest checks before tearing into it. Should I pressure test the oil cooler in place?

 

[Beachbummer]

The most common failure point is the exhaust manifold, the water and exhaust paths corrode to the point they are one and the same. I didn't think you can check this one with a leak down test.

 

[danzr1]

The most common failure point is the exhaust manifold, the water and exhaust paths corrode to the point they are one and the same. I didn't think you can check this one with a leak down test.

This doesn't look great, am i right?

 

[Beachbummer]

I agree! The second from left to right looks especially beached.

 

[Neutron]

Unfortunately if that looks that bad the head passages are that bad and most likely there is a breach from water to oil passage. Exhaust breaches have been known to cause water into the cylinders where it can leak down into the bottem end but this is rare. Has to be a lot of water and you would get misfire i would think

 

[danzr1]

Well I did have hard starting, as in it took several tries to actually fire up if it sat for more than a day or so unused. Unsure if that is related. Would one or more of the cylinders looked clean? I have scope camera to inspect. I ordered a head gasket as well in case.

 

[Neutron]

Well I did have hard starting, as in it took several tries to actually fire up if it sat for more than a day or so unused. Unsure if that is related. Would one or more of the cylinders looked clean? I have scope camera to inspect. I ordered a head gasket as well in case.

Yes usually the ones with water would be "steam cleaned"

 

[Beachbummer]

I would consider a new or rebuild head for this engine if the engine looks good otherwise. Sometimes there's good deals on ebay for engines or heards from freshwater that look great. SBT is another option that many hate, but can get you going. Maybe I'm wrong and the fuzziness in the pictures lies, but if the passages are rusted to the point the water enters the "wrong" part of the head, you will see a repeat. Best of Luck!

 

[Neutron]

This is from same engine but much newer with low hours and flushed after every use.
But ski was always on a nose elevated ramp at their house. The block was toast also. There was no material between the cylinder wall and the water jacket

 

[danzr1]

I was thinking the same. Maybe while I wait for the gaskets, I'll remove my head and see what its like. I"ve got a new head gasket coming as I was thinking I may need to change it anyway. I'm starting to think wet slipping a jet boat isn't the best idea! lol.

Real quick, can I remove the head in the boat?

 

[Beachbummer]

I'm impressed you got the exhaust manifold while in the boat! That's out of my depth but I've read on the board that it's possible but not pleasant. Maybe look through prior posts and also SBT has public guides that are comprehensive of removal and reinstall that may help. (In addition to the shop manual of course)

 

[danzr1]

Yes, I don't know why I asked that, I removed my head before removing my whole engine, I recalled a few years back. The other engine had a cracked block, which I had someone weld....working fine ever since. WIO in that one too.

Should I try just changing the exhaust gasket?

 

[Neutron]

Yes you can remove the head in the boat

 

[Cambo]

This doesn't look great, am i right?

It looks great to me. This is an easy fix for the most part buy a used exhaust manifold the same ones were used on jet skis as well. You did the difficult part removing it. Take a tap and clean that shit out of the 20 Bolts holes, I'm not sure what they use but I bet you noticed they would bind up on the way out. Get a new manifold gasket have someone help line it up and bolt it back on. That solved my problem. Page 1 thread #9 was my breached 2005 AR230 non Ho. No more oil in the water after the used manifold was installed.

Go to the back of the motor pull the bolt so you can drain all the oil search on how to do this

 

[danzr1]

Great info! Yes, one bolt was on the verge of snapping, likely where it was leaking, as you can see the corrosion on it. I slowly backed out, then in over and over, lots of PB blaster, and eventually got it. The other came out like butter.

Why a new manifold and just not the gasket? If you think its bad or cracked, I can probably pressure test it pretty easily.

I'll have no issues getting it back on, I think I removed it from my other engine several time before fixing it. I bought an electric ratchet just for this.

As far as the oil goes, I removed the sensor on the valve cover and was able to my oil extractor hose to the bottom of the engine down where the timing chain is. I have sucked it all out.

 

[Beachbummer]

This is why a new manifold is needed. There is a breach between the water passage and the exhaust passage here. This causes endless water to enter the engine. The gasket alone won't fix it.

You mentioned you also be getting a new head. Is that still your plan?

Best of luck!

 

[danzr1]

Wow, I didn't see that at first! Well I will definitely change the manifold. I thought I would just try it with a new exhaust manifold, and see if I still get water in the oil. If that works, I'll likely use it as is and tear into the head after the summer. Our summer is short here, July and Aug, and I paid for my marina fee, so hopefully I won't miss much of the season. I will scope the cylinder later, and see if the valves looks rusty, if I can see that, then maybe decide to change the head.

 

[Beachbummer]

If the engine is getting full compression and was reaching full rpms maybe you are good with no new head.

 

[Beachbummer]

But, you have done about 20-30% of the job of replacing it. As long as you are ok needing to do this again if/when the head gives up the ghost.

Once again, best of luck!!!