• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Yamaha 242 no power to gauges port side and motor won’t turn over.

Taylor0118!

Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
10
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2014
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
24
So I’ve got a new issue on my 2014 Yamaha 242 Limited S..
When I turn over the ignition on the port side motor I get nothing.. The gauges don’t light up and the engine won’t even try to turn over. It’s almost as if I’m not even turning the key over. Before we start this is what I’ve done so far. Swapped the ignition switches from port to starboard, same issue.. nothing. Replaced the starter relay, nothing…checked all known fuses and replaced battery. Still nothing. I can turn over the starter by connecting a jumper from the battery straight to the starter. So the starter is good, ignition switch is good, fuses are good, relay switch is good.. any advice on what I’m missing. Seems like it’s an electric issue but I can’t seem to figure out where.. thanks in advance!
 
Did you ever figure out what was causing this?
 
That guy joined July 2 2022 and the last time he was seen was July 3 2022.
I figured it was a long shot lol. It might be the guy I bought the boat from actually 😂
 
Last edited:
For anyone else that comes across this, after some trouble shooting tonight I found the safety switch on the rear deck panel to be the

I’m glad you figured out the problem! If you bought the boat with the nonfunctioning engine hopefully you got it at a very good deal and now you’ve got a great running boat I assume. When I first read that initial post I had thought about all of the kill switches, But kind of discarded that thought when the OP stated there was no power to the gauges.
 
I’m glad you figured out the problem! If you bought the boat with the nonfunctioning engine hopefully you got it at a very good deal and now you’ve got a great running boat I assume. When I first read that initial post I had thought about all of the kill switches, But kind of discarded that thought when the OP stated there was no power to the gauges.
It was running fine before I put it away for the season. Just pulled it out and port side was completely inop. With the deck hatch open, the starboard side does the same thing now(which was operating fine).

Bypassed the switch and port side checks good. Horribly convenient having two, identical, independent systems to troubleshoot against each other

Think I’ll just bypass both switches at this point. Have had the deck hatch bounce while underway and kill the engines, and now that I think about it had some intermittent starting issues last season that were more than likely attributed to one or both switches failing.

From a safety standpoint, I understand why they are there, but it’s an overpriced point of failure. I also wouldn’t shove my arm in the pump cavity just as I wouldn’t put it in a garbage disposal with power applied 😂😂
 
It was running fine before I put it away for the season. Just pulled it out and port side was completely inop. With the deck hatch open, the starboard side does the same thing now(which was operating fine).

Bypassed the switch and port side checks good. Horribly convenient having two, identical, independent systems to troubleshoot against each other

Think I’ll just bypass both switches at this point. Have had the deck hatch bounce while underway and kill the engines, and now that I think about it had some intermittent starting issues last season that were more than likely attributed to one or both switches failing.

From a safety standpoint, I understand why they are there, but it’s an overpriced point of failure. I also wouldn’t shove my arm in the pump cavity just as I wouldn’t put it in a garbage disposal with power applied 😂😂

May I humbly suggest that you adjust the clean out hatch latching mechanism so that it is snug. The latching bar on mine is threaded and can be adjusted up or down you just have to loosen the small allen head set screw.

The interlock switches on that hatch are what I call anti-stupid or anti-tragedy devices, if you’re in the boat alone probably not going to be an issue, but if there are other people on board that could be a tragedy that could be averted by leaving those interlocks in place. Having worked in an industry for decades that use this type of inner locks I know that many lives were saved and lives were lost when those inner locks were bypassed.

Again, awesome you found the issue !
 
Also, the switches adjust with a little screw mechanism. Very easy adjustment, even if you have to make it 1x year, worth the investment vs losing a hand or something.

I think I adjusted mine when I had the boat about 9 months... never had to touch it since.
 
May I humbly suggest that you adjust the clean out hatch latching mechanism so that it is snug. The latching bar on mine is threaded and can be adjusted up or down you just have to loosen the small allen head set screw.

The interlock switches on that hatch are what I call anti-stupid or anti-tragedy devices, if you’re in the boat alone probably not going to be an issue, but if there are other people on board that could be a tragedy that could be averted by leaving those interlocks in place. Having worked in an industry for decades that use this type of inner locks I know that many lives were saved and lives were lost when those inner locks were bypassed.

Again, awesome you found the issue !
I appreciate the concern. It wasn’t an adjustment issue, the switch just straight up failed. Considering that I’m the only person that drives the boat, and that no one else knows the deck hatch is even there (or even how to open it if found) I think we’re fine until I can replace them.

I agree with calling them anti-stupid switches. I agree that their purpose is necessary. I agree that inter-locks are life savers. We’ll just call this one a calculated risk..
 
Back
Top