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Let's talk batteries....

anmut

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I'm using the cheapies from the dealership, but like other's said, they ALWAYS sit on an Battery Tender when not in use. Even now, with the boat in storage, the batteries are in my office on a trickle charge.
 

agannole93

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I'm using the cheapies from the dealership, but like other's said, they ALWAYS sit on an Battery Tender when not in use. Even now, with the boat in storage, the batteries are in my office on a trickle charge.
Are you running anything extra or all stock?
 

Sotally Tober

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Curious about this as well. I have a two battery setup with switch now, however one of the batteries in the boat is about dead, only pushing 4.5V at the end of last season on our last outing. We have a charger so not that.

I was definitely already swapping that battery of course. I'm doing a stereo install, about 1300 watts total of amps pushing 8 speakers and two subs. Debating if I should run a separate battery just for the stereo as I have a 3 bank noco, or simply swap the house battery I have for something better. Looking at an x2 that's about 100ah or an xs power d3100.
I'm running 4 XS Power 3100s for my system and they are awesome. On my previous two boats I always ran costco 6 volt golf cart batteries (six total) and the XS power 3100's are out performing those while pushing 5,000 watts. Highly recommend getting the XS power and wire your system directly to it.
 

agannole93

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I'm running 4 XS Power 3100s for my system and they are awesome. On my previous two boats I always ran costco 6 volt golf cart batteries (six total) and the XS power 3100's are out performing those while pushing 5,000 watts. Highly recommend getting the XS power and wire your system directly to it.
May have to bite the bullet on the cost if they're that good.
 

anmut

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Sotally Tober

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May have to bite the bullet on the cost if they're that good.
I thought there was no way they could last longer than the golf cart batteries.... and they did. We used and abused them at Havasu for 4 straight days. Ran the system HARD all day. The music never skipped a beat.
 

Canuckjetboater

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Sorry if I am beating a dead horse but I couldn't find exactly what I needed. I have a 2020 242x that I bought new 6 months ago. The dealer put pretty low grade batteries (Autocraft 24DC-2 House and Autocraft M24-1 Start) in the boat and I can only get about a 30-60 minutes out of the house battery at anchor now. It discharged once the first week now it won't hold a good charge. Start battery is fine so I am not worried about that one plus i have a Lithium Ion jump pack.

Short term (this weekend):
I want to add a really good battery for the house. What does everyone recommend?

Long term:
I want to have the start battery and two house batteries. Similar to the one I purchase above but not sure how it needs to be wired and if it need any other components to make it work. What is the proper way to wire the second battery into the house configuration? If its not too complicated, I may do both batteries at the same time.

Other problem I have, the boat is stored in a high and dry marina here in Dunedin Florida so my solar panel never really gets used and I am not able to connect to a charger for any length of time. How do I maintain the charge on the batteries? Do I just need to do a long wake/surf session or do I need to remove the batteries and take them home with me every so often for a deep charge?

Hopefully these are to dumb of questions.

Brad
@Diybrad ..... AGM TPPL. End of story.
 

agannole93

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I thought there was no way they could last longer than the golf cart batteries.... and they did. We used and abused them at Havasu for 4 straight days. Ran the system HARD all day. The music never skipped a beat.
Doing some research XS also had the xp3000. Apparently has to be used as strictly a secondary, not for starting, but still 120ah. Thinking at $130 cheaper might be my direction.
 

212s

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Where did you get the information that these engines produce 25 amps of charging current?
I don't recall the exact model info, but it was from the specs of a Yamaha Waverunner with the 1.8L engines. My 212s manual does not quote amperage ratings in the specs pages unfortunately. Note that is about the max the generators can put out, so some current is used to run the electronics and a bit of loss, so battery charge current would probably be more like 10-15a per engine. That's still pretty good recharge current, so on my boat with twin engines, I'm looking at 20-30a to charge the house and start batteries. My batteries are roughly 85ah so the house from 70% to full would take about 45 mins give or take. The start battery only takes a couple minutes to get recharged since it doesn't use much current to start these small engines. This depends on the regulator and charging circuits, battery temp, ambient air temp, etc. of course, but it sounds about right from my actual usage.
 

Michael Night

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Can someone kindly post a photo of a correct setup of dual battery wiring. Thanks.
 

tdonoughue

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@Michael Night , need more info before we can do that. With ACR? Or DSVR? Or a Perko switch?
 

Michael Night

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@Michael Night , need more info before we can do that. With ACR? Or DSVR? Or a Perko switch?
Found this on YouTube, not sure if it’s the correct wiring. picked up my first boat a few months ago and last time I was out. My radio would not turn on unless both switch’s were put on. ( House and start ) correct my if I'm wrong, my radio should only need my house battery on and my start off?
 

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tdonoughue

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Ah! In that case, I think you have a Connext question, not so much a battery question. Not sure about that one (I don't have Connext), but I do know that is a popular question and that there have been many wiring issues with the Connext for some years (battery voltages not shown correctly, as well as your issue).

So, I'm out of my depth here, except to suggest a search of the forum. I think I recall the same question previously...
 

Michael Night

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Ah! In that case, I think you have a Connext question, not so much a battery question. Not sure about that one (I don't have Connext), but I do know that is a popular question and that there have been many wiring issues with the Connext for some years (battery voltages not shown correctly, as well as your issue).

So, I'm out of my depth here, except to suggest a search of the forum. I think I recall the same question previously...
Well thanks, and it's funny you mentioned voltage. Because I get two totally different reading when I'm in and out the water. Lol
 

FSH 210 Sport

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I don't recall the exact model info, but it was from the specs of a Yamaha Waverunner with the 1.8L engines. My 212s manual does not quote amperage ratings in the specs pages unfortunately. Note that is about the max the generators can put out, so some current is used to run the electronics and a bit of loss, so battery charge current would probably be more like 10-15a per engine. That's still pretty good recharge current, so on my boat with twin engines, I'm looking at 20-30a to charge the house and start batteries. My batteries are roughly 85ah so the house from 70% to full would take about 45 mins give or take. The start battery only takes a couple minutes to get recharged since it doesn't use much current to start these small engines. This depends on the regulator and charging circuits, battery temp, ambient air temp, etc. of course, but it sounds about right from my actual usage.
Right on... Thanks for the reply !

I called Yamaha a while back and the tech wouldn’t give me any spec data on output or the stator wattage of my TR-1 engines. For my boat, the only source of information I’ve seen came from a guy who made a post about a stereo upgrade on his boat with TR-1’s, he must have measured the output as he posted a figure of 14 amps per engine. I’ll run my own tests this next season and post results.

I was looking for charging data so I could rig up a way to charge my trolling motor battery bank while underway. All the tech would say is that there was not much left over to charge more than the start and the house battery...

It seems to me the system would be designed to carry the load of all devices being turned on at the same time, and still supply some charging current.
 
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tdonoughue

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I think the issue is the definition of 'the load of all devices'. I'm sure that they cover all of the stock devices and options you can have added from Yamaha. The issue is things like trolling motors, fish finders, amps, 17 speakers, stern lights, VHF radios, etc., etc., etc. that you see added to boats are all extra and not what the engineers planned as the 'load of all devices'. I'm sure they have some overage available. But I am equally confident of our collective ability to add crap to our boats that in at least some cases will exceed that amount.
 

212s

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Found this on YouTube, not sure if it’s the correct wiring. picked up my first boat a few months ago and last time I was out. My radio would not turn on unless both switch’s were put on. ( House and start ) correct my if I'm wrong, my radio should only need my house battery on and my start off?
That sounds normal. If your boat is wired for a dual battery system, then the radio may rely on the Connext system. On my 2020 model the Fusion radio will come on along with the Connext with just the house, but the Connext will trigger an alarm that the start is dead/not connected so I need to have both switches on to silence the alarm. I believe your 2021 uses the Ennovation system which relies on the Connext system for radio, so it may require that both switches be on to function. You should always have both switches on when using the boat anyway, and only the house battery should drain using the radio while floating. Yamaha had some wiring issues a few years ago with dual battery boats, but that seems to have been fixed with recent models. Your boat is new with the Ennovation system, so maybe something is not quire right, however having both switches on while using the boat, driving or floating, is perfectly normal.
 

212s

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I was looking for charging data so I could rig up a way to charge my trolling motor battery bank while underway. All the tech would say is that there was not much left over to charge more than the start and the house battery...
It seems to me the system would be designed to carry the load of all devices being turned on at the same time, and still supply some charging current.
Yes that's correct, all charging systems would need to be designed to run everything and charge the batteries at idle speeds, otherwise you would have a constant "parasitic" type drain on the batteries. As the engines rev up, output current increases to recharge the batteries faster. Having said that, the system does not have to be designed for other high current drains like a trolling motor and battery, or a 2000w amplifier system. That's why you need a battery charging system for the extra toys. The TR-1 engines are 3-cyl so they don't have as much torque for a large stator, which is probably why it puts out about 30% less than the 1.8L engines.

For my system with just a 500w digital amp, I don't really need any additional charging unless I'm near the launch ramp and cranking tunes, and then it's a short drive back and the batteries don't get topped up. For longer drives back, say half an hour or more, my batteries are usually recharged while cranking tunes on the way back too. Yet I have an on-board 4amp charger to make sure my batteries are topped up when needed, and maintained during winter storage.
 

WiskyDan

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Many thanks to all that replied to my post a little earlier in this thread.

I ordered a pair of Odyssey Extreme (AGM/TPPL) Trolling Thunder Group 34 batteries today:


A bit pricey but the well worth the piece of mind that I’ll be able to float with the radio on and not have to worry about the engines starting at the end of the day.
 

HangOutdoors

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I have been reading on batteries all day. I am landing on the same battery

Odyssey 34M-PC1500ST Battery | 12 Volt 68 Ah Battery (batterymart.com)

Thinking about picking up 1 or 2 now, but if I ever get around to doing a trolling motor on this boat, I would just get a 3rd one and then wire two in a series for 24v. Was hoping for a lower cost solution with a decent group 34M battery AGM of course.
 
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