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Another Clean-Out Plug Thread

I have noticed that the application evenness of the bees wax is critical to the amount of water getting past the seals. The seals are shaped in a pressure up orientation, so Yamaha believes that water is being pressed UP towards the plug. I believe that while operating the boat at a constant speed, the boats travel across the water actually “scoops” enough water to create pressure on the clean out plugs. This is the mode that I think you guys are seeing bypass. I spend a good amount of time needing and working the wax before I apply. Last time out, I had very little water in the tubes, and nothing but air came out of the hull drain plug.
 
I picked up some o-rings from MSC. Will see how they work for me and note it here....
Popped the #350 rings in from MSC with a thin coat of "lube tube". Seated fine as noted in other posts. Worked perfectly. Totally dry above the plugs where they would normally be near full. So far so good!
 

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Can anyone tell me what O ring would work for a 2023 AR195 single engine. Same size? Link to order ?
They should. After @TeenGee posted about the #350 O ring success I checked the part numbers of the clean out plug assemblies of my boat with TR-1’s, his 255 FSH with its 1.8L’s and a couple other late model boats and their clean out plug assemblies and all were the same. As @drewkaree mentions below, double check online parts fishce to be sure.

I did a quick check on Vallely Sport and Marines website and found your boats clean out plug assembly.

CF784A93-0A04-4E01-A56A-05C030D240B8.png

And here is the one for my boat
F3E39E73-B832-46D1-9B3F-DC25A34574B9.png

As you can see same part numbers.

Scroll back through the thread for the ordering information.
 
Last edited:
Can anyone tell me what O ring would work for a 2023 AR195 single engine. Same size? Link to order ?
www.partzilla.com

Look for the Jet Pump parts explosion, and see what the part number is for your boat, and then back out of your boat's section, and look up the boat model for anyone in this thread that's reported back - if the cleanout plug is the same number, there's verification for you.

I will say yes, but you will be the one who needs to verify this
 
I have noticed that the application evenness of the bees wax is critical to the amount of water getting past the seals. The seals are shaped in a pressure up orientation, so Yamaha believes that water is being pressed UP towards the plug. I believe that while operating the boat at a constant speed, the boats travel across the water actually “scoops” enough water to create pressure on the clean out plugs. This is the mode that I think you guys are seeing bypass. I spend a good amount of time needing and working the wax before I apply. Last time out, I had very little water in the tubes, and nothing but air came out of the hull drain plug.
These O rings eliminate the need for wax for sealing purposes on the clean out plugs. All you’ll need is some silicone spray to keep the plugs mechanism operating smoothly and tiny bit of wax, silicone spray, pool pump lube to keep the seals themselves supple.
 
They should. After @TeenGee posted about the #350 O ring success I checked the part numbers of the clean out plug assemblies of my boat with TR-1’s, his 255 FSH with its 1.8L’s and a couple other late model boats and their clean out plug assemblies and all were the same. As @drewkaree mentions below, double check online parts fishce to be sure.

I did a quick check on Vallely Sport and Marines website and found your boats clean out plug assembly.

View attachment 235918

And here is the one for my boat
View attachment 235919

As you can see same part numbers.

Scroll back through the thread for the ordering information.
Many Thanks!
 
www.partzilla.com

Look for the Jet Pump parts explosion, and see what the part number is for your boat, and then back out of your boat's section, and look up the boat model for anyone in this thread that's reported back - if the cleanout plug is the same number, there's verification for you.

I will say yes, but you will be the one who needs to verify this
Thanks !
 
#350 O-Rings installed on 2021 AR250. I'm anxious to test and see how much water this blocks, as I still take on quite a bit as we are underway.

I'm also replacing the Watkins Replacement Water Check Valve for Hot Springs Spa, 3/4" - 35233 with a TH Marine Boat Scupper Check Valve ILS-750-DP | Inline Dual 3/4 Inch as I still get water backflowing through the check valve with the Watkins product.

I'm also replacing the plastic scupper.
This could be the reason the Watkins Check Valve isn’t working. Shavings in the check valve.
IMG_6251.jpeg


I got the metal thru hull scupper installed with the help of the Admiral. Sealed with 5200. The plastic one, 4 years old, was still solid and was fairly sealed with clear silicone.

IMG_6252.jpeg

Now I had to order the clean out drain thru hull fitting to replace the plastic one. Why didn’t I just do all of these at once!?
 
This could be the reason the Watkins Check Valve isn’t working. Shavings in the check valve.
View attachment 236015


I got the metal thru hull scupper installed with the help of the Admiral. Sealed with 5200. The plastic one, 4 years old, was still solid and was fairly sealed with clear silicone.

View attachment 236016

Now I had to order the clean out drain thru hull fitting to replace the plastic one. Why didn’t I just do all of these at once!?


Because you and I both didn't really want to do the job, but once you were elbows deep...in for a penny, in for a pound. Lemme just find a rake to step on 🤣
 
Final report after 5 days in the water:
The check valve worked. It allowed water on the tray to drain and prevented water from back flowing.
Interesting observation about the o-rings. I left the plugs installed because the plugs are below the water line. If I removed the plugs, the ports fill with a couple of inches of water. I checked the ports at the end of each day. There was no visible water. In the morning I inspected the ports and there was about an inch of water visible on top of the plugs. My conclusion, The o-rings leak slightly under low pressure after being installed for several days. Also during hole shots, the suction pulled the water back past the plug.
Back home now with the boat on the lift and the plugs removed. Next time out, I am going to listen closely for cavitation, which would indicate the o-rings work well under positive pressure but not so well under suction.
 
Final report after 5 days in the water:
The check valve worked. It allowed water on the tray to drain and prevented water from back flowing.
Interesting observation about the o-rings. I left the plugs installed because the plugs are below the water line. If I removed the plugs, the ports fill with a couple of inches of water. I checked the ports at the end of each day. There was no visible water. In the morning I inspected the ports and there was about an inch of water visible on top of the plugs. My conclusion, The o-rings leak slightly under low pressure after being installed for several days. Also during hole shots, the suction pulled the water back past the plug.
Back home now with the boat on the lift and the plugs removed. Next time out, I am going to listen closely for cavitation, which would indicate the o-rings work well under positive pressure but not so well under suction.

I’ve been out five times now with the O rings installed. Granted most of my 10-12 hour days on the water are with the engines off or at idle while trolling. I have each time however done at least a 10 mile run around the lake, not one drop of water is in the clean out tubes. I removed them after outings 1&2, and then put them back on Wednesday, the first of three days in a row on the water, still no water.
 
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