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2025 SD Jet Pump Disassembly Questions

Madman

Well-Known Member
Messages
111
Reaction score
138
Points
62
Location
Sun Prairie, WI
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2025
Boat Model
252SD
Boat Length
25
In the last 15 years, I never had a need to remove a jet pump on my boat. I know I was probably overdue, but with just over an hour on the new boat, I had to load it back on the trailer and head home. I watched a couple of videos to get the basic idea and got to work. As many of you know, it’s a pretty straightforward process, but since the service manual for my boat isn’t available yet and it looks like there are some differences with DriveX, I’m wondering if someone has a service manual and might be able to answer a few questions.

1) After disconnecting the nozzle, I wanted to disconnect and remove the reverse gate so I could get it out of the way, but I couldn’t figure out remove the e-clip due to clearance issues. Is there a process for disconnecting/removing the reverse gate.
2) What, if any sealant is used between the nozzle and impeller housings?
3) What, if any sealant is required between the impeller housing and the transom plate.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
I would need a picture of the reverse linkage to see what is involved. Once the linkage is off it allows you to move up or down to get to the pump bolts
I always leave the reverse gate attached and seperate on the bench

There usually isnt sealant between the housing and the cone. I will only use sealant if the surfaces are not smooth. But some use it anyway.
You definitely need it to the pump to the transom plate. You need to clean off what was there and apply a thin layer to the surface
I use black automotive rtv sealant on all pump surfaces because it can be easily cleaned off next time it comes apart. You dont want anything permanent
 
I would need a picture of the reverse linkage to see what is involved. Once the linkage is off it allows you to move up or down to get to the pump bolts
I always leave the reverse gate attached and seperate on the bench

There usually isnt sealant between the housing and the cone. I will only use sealant if the surfaces are not smooth. But some use it anyway.
You definitely need it to the pump to the transom plate. You need to clean off what was there and apply a thin layer to the surface
I use black automotive rtv sealant on all pump surfaces because it can be easily cleaned off next time it comes apart. You dont want anything permanent
Here are the pics of the linkage to the reverse gate. I called them e-clips, but they’re actually external retainers. I removed the larger ones on each side, but needed to remove the smaller ones on the vertical pin, but I just couldn’t get the clearance for my tools.. I was able to get the pump out without removing the gate, but removing the gate wouldn’t have required an extra pair of hands. IMG_2895.jpegIMG_2894.jpegIMG_2896.jpeg
 

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Can’t you use screwdriver or an awl and rotate clip around so the holes are accessible? Put something pointy in the left hole and you should be able to rotate counterclockwise. Pushing on it will open clip a little and loosen grip so it will turn. As clean and new as all that is I would think you could rotate it. And maybe a circling tool with angled points.
 
You need 90 degree snap ring Plyers.
What was wrong with the prior design that they used on every year since the beginning of waverunners.
I believe there is a way to put it in service mode so it is in reverse making it easier to access
 
I see in your other post, you just unbolted the reverse gate from the nozzle and left attached to the linkage
 
You need 90 degree snap ring Plyers.
What was wrong with the prior design that they used on every year since the beginning of waverunners.
I believe there is a way to put it in service mode so it is in reverse making it easier to access
😳 I didn’t even consider that! The worse part is that I believe I already own that tool! I guess I got flustered because the earlier models had a quick disconnect type design and there’s not much clearance to work with. I’ll have to give that a check in the morning. Thanks!
 
I see in your other post, you just unbolted the reverse gate from the nozzle and left attached to the linkage
You’re right. I was able to detach it, but it required an extra set of hands to hold it out of the way when I pulled the pump. Those extra set of hands were already mad because they didn’t get to go out on the lake on Mother’s Day!
 
On certain seadoodoo models i use a bungie to keep it up
 
Thanks! It doesn’t look like I need to use very much because had a hard time separating the impeller housing from the transom plate and there was barely a trace when I disassembled the nozzle and impeller housings.
 
Thanks! It doesn’t look like I need to use very much because had a hard time separating the impeller housing from the transom plate and there was barely a trace when I disassembled the nozzle and impeller housings.
If you watch any of the dealer videos of them taking pumps apart, they never apply the prescribed gasket sealer to the pump.

Are you going to tell us WHY you had to remove the pump? Enquiring minds always want to know how other people messed up!!! LOL
 
Thanks! It doesn’t look like I need to use very much because had a hard time separating the impeller housing from the transom plate and there was barely a trace when I disassembled the nozzle and impeller housings.
Yeah it’s a pretty clean machined surface.
 
Madman. Here are the service manual pages from the 2024 255xd and 255xe. Pump should match yours or be very close. Agree on the removal of the circlip on the linkage as you will need a 90 degree removal tool.
 

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If you watch any of the dealer videos of them taking pumps apart, they never apply the prescribed gasket sealer to the pump.

Are you going to tell us WHY you had to remove the pump? Enquiring minds always want to know how other people messed up!!! LOL
From the picture on his other post there was a good sized stick jammed in the prop
 
If you watch any of the dealer videos of them taking pumps apart, they never apply the prescribed gasket sealer to the pump.

Are you going to tell us WHY you had to remove the pump? Enquiring minds always want to know how other people messed up!!! LOL
Just the hazards of early season boating in WI, I guess. Some of the lakes around here are still pretty dirty with debris floating close to the surface. After launching and coming up to speed, I noticed a vibration and isolated the problem to the port side. I thought that maybe I had weeds in the pump and tried the reverse maneuver (I’m not sure if that works with DriveX) and then checked the clean out port. Not finding or feeling anything, I loaded it back on the trailer and crawled underneath. Reaching through the intake, I felt something in the impeller and, thanks to this forum, I knew what I needed to do!

Taking it a part, I found a pair of sticks lodged in the impeller. I waffled on replacing the sealant for the exact reason you stated, but I called my dealer and their service dept says they always apply a sealant and recommend the same… so now I’ve removed the pump twice! 😂

I’m not sure, but I think the pumps are located further back than my 2010 and access is seems more difficult. I like to hear what others think.

1747086062047.png
 
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Madman. Here are the service manual pages from the 2024 255xd and 255xe. Pump should match yours or be very close. Agree on the removal of the circlip on the linkage as you will need a 90 degree removal tool.
Thanks for sharing. I’ve been waiting to order a service manual but they’re not available yet. I removed the pump again, because I felt there still fun to be had, and decided take @Neutron advise to use a bungee to keep it out of my way. I looked at that clip a couple of times and it was so small, I was afraid it’d go flying across my shop!
 
So when I removed the pump a second time to apply sealant, I noticed scoring or poor machining on the transom plate. I initially thought it was from the impeller, but this is upstream from that. I assume this is “normal”?
 

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