DVSR modification

[Justbix1]

Here is the DVSR mod that I did after I installed the Noco dual charger. I know there is the red wire you can cut and attached to the battery switch, but I wasn’t sure which side of the ride wire to attach.

This is on my 2024 AR250. My house battery is still cooked. Will probably install a 100ah lithium shortly.

 

[Masbury]

Looking at adding the NOCO Gen5x2 to my 2012 242. I finally got off the wait list and into an enclosed storage unit with power. I like how you simply added the interrupt switch instead of cutting the red wire behind the DVSR.

What switch did you go with? I really like the clean look with the round push button.

 

[RockShawn]

So my NOCO is hooked up directly to each individual battery (house and start) which are both AGM. Does this mean the DVSR is putting the batteries in parallel when charging every time? No other mod has been done on my start and house batteries or disconnects. It’s all factory as far as I know. The only thing I have noticed on the water is when I start after sitting for a while, the voltage readings on the Conext turn yellow for both batteries while cranking. The DVSR confuses me. Both AGM are new and both show full charge on the NOCO when complete

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thread 'DVSR help...'

Jun 19, 2019

I wouldn’t ask if I hadn’t searched all over. I can not find the tutorial with pictures for modifying the DVSR when adding a 2 bank charger. I just noticed that the red light on the DVSR was on during and after charging while the switches were off. Could someone post the link or pics or instructions for the mod? Summer is almost here!

• MicahH
• Replies: 165
• Forum: Electronics-Stereo/GPS/Chartplotter/Electrical etc

BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY User Manual

View and Download BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY instruction manual online.

manualmachine.com

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

So my NOCO is hooked up directly to each individual battery (house and start) which are both AGM. Does this mean the DVSR is putting the batteries in parallel when charging every time? No other mod has been done on my start and house batteries or disconnects. It’s all factory as far as I know. The only thing I have noticed on the water is when I start after sitting for a while, the voltage readings on the Conext turn yellow for both batteries while cranking. The DVSR confuses me. Both AGM are new and both show full charge on the NOCO when complete

With the BEP Marine switch set up as delivered from the factory, whenever the voltage on either the start or house gets to 13.4 volts the DVSR closes the switch // the start and house batteries, when the voltage drops to 12.8 volts the DVSR opens the switch breaking // between the start and house batteries, isolating them.

When charging batteries, the charge voltage will be 14.4 volts for AGM batteries and a bit higher for FLA batteries.

If both voltage meters are going to yellow when you start the boat, that means you have the emergency // switch turned on, turn it off and leave it off unless your start battery is too low to start the engines.

In normal use, when you get ready to head out, Star Battery ON-green, House Battery ON-green, emergency parallel switch OFF-red.

 

[RockShawn]

With the BEP Marine switch set up as delivered from the factory, whenever the voltage on either the start or house gets to 13.4 volts the DVSR closes the switch // the start and house batteries, when the voltage drops to 12.8 volts the DVSR opens the switch breaking // between the start and house batteries, isolating them.

When charging batteries, the charge voltage will be 14.4 volts for AGM batteries and a bit higher for FLA batteries.

If both voltage meters are going to yellow when you start the boat, that means you have the emergency // switch turned on, turn it off and leave it off unless your start battery is too low to start the engines.

In normal use, when you get ready to head out, Star Battery ON-green, House Battery ON-green, emergency parallel switch OFF-red.

Ok, the yellow switch is in the up and down position (like the battery cutoffs when off) i never looked to see if that is the right position tho. I’ll do that. Previous owner said up and down was the off position on yellow but i never verified.

Looks like i need to do yours or this mod for the DVSR or would I just hook up one battery to the NOCO? Previous boat my trolling batteries were wired hard in Parallel so I only had one battery connected to the charger. That i understand. The DVSR is tripping me up.

 

[gmtech16450yz]

If you're thinking about putting a lithium (Lifepo4) battery in at some time, you MAY want to ditch that dvsr anyway. I recently put Lifepo4's in my boat, I'll make a separate thread for info.

 

[outfmny]

If you're thinking about putting a lithium (Lifepo4) battery in at some time, you'll want to ditch that dvsr anyway. I recently put Lifepo4's in my boat, I'll make a separate thread for info.

Waiting for your video

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Waiting for your video

What video?

 

[outfmny]

What video?

Sorry I meant thread

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Sorry I meant thread

No prob, the thread is up. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't supposed to be doing something. lol.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

If you're thinking about putting a lithium (Lifepo4) battery in at some time, you'll want to ditch that dvsr anyway. I recently put Lifepo4's in my boat, I'll make a separate thread for info.

This is NOT TRUE. That is bad information based on your lack of knowledge of how the DVSR functions, your desired outcome and this information is clearly provided in post #4 of this thread. You acknowledge this in your other thread wherein you state that the fuel pump hot / ignition hot mode wouldn’t work for you as you troll on a single engine that would keep the DVSR from working when you are running on the engine who’s fuel pump hot is not tied to the DVSR, you ran a separate combiner solenoid with a fuel pump hot from each engine to energize the combiner solenoid with a diode installed in each wire from fuel pump hot to keep from energizing the non running engines fuel pump, you could have done the same thing with the DVSR and energized it from either engine.

You did this so that when starting your engines you could have all three of your small power sports batteries and their small watt hour storage in parallel to increase CCA’s and reduce weight. This to provide over 1000 cranking amps on engines where 500-800 cranking amps from a dedicated start battery at the sacrifice of watt hour storage is more than sufficient. In your set up you are severely limited in Amp hours of your starting batterie(s) and house batteries for that matter when compared to a dedicated group 24 start battery and group 24 house battery of lead acid chemistry. That set up works for you in your boats usage of operating relatively low draw electronics and running the engines a lot within your boats daily use. Installing two group 24 LFP batteries would have still netted you a significant weight savings with a massive boost in storage, 15.6 Ah of storage compared to 75 Ah to 100Ah of storage, while still getting 1000 CCA’s of start power.

The DVSR just needs a very simple modification that is one of the factory designed in modes of operation that many on this site have in use for their lithium / LFP / LiFePO4 battery set ups.

BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY User Manual

View and Download BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY instruction manual online.

manualmachine.com

 

[gmtech16450yz]

This is NOT TRUE. That is bad information based on your lack of knowledge of how the DVSR functions, your desired outcome and this information is clearly provided in post #4 of this thread. You acknowledge this in your other thread wherein you state that the fuel pump hot / ignition hot mode wouldn’t work for you as you troll on a single engine that would keep the DVSR from working when you are running on the engine who’s fuel pump hot is not tied to the DVSR, you ran a separate combiner solenoid with a fuel pump hot from each engine to energize the combiner solenoid with a diode installed in each wire from fuel pump hot to keep from energizing the non running engines fuel pump, you could have done the same thing with the DVSR and energized it from either engine.

You did this so that when starting your engines you could have all three of your small power sports batteries and their small watt hour storage in parallel to increase CCA’s and reduce weight. This to provide over 1000 cranking amps on engines where 500-800 cranking amps from a dedicated start battery at the sacrifice of watt hour storage is more than sufficient. In your set up you are severely limited in Amp hours of your starting batterie(s) and house batteries for that matter when compared to a dedicated group 24 start battery and group 24 house battery of lead acid chemistry. That set up works for you in your boats usage of operating relatively low draw electronics and running the engines a lot within your boats daily use. Installing two group 24 LFP batteries would have still netted you a significant weight savings with a massive boost in storage, 15.6 Ah of storage compared to 75 Ah to 100Ah of storage, while still getting 1000 CCA’s of start power.

The DVSR just needs a very simple modification that is one of the factory designed in modes of operation that many on this site have in use for their lithium / LFP / LiFePO4 battery set ups.

View attachment 240431

BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY User Manual

View and Download BEP DIGITAL VOLTAGE SENSITIVE RELAY instruction manual online.

manualmachine.com

Why are you defending the dvsr so much? Are you a dvsr salesman? hahahahaha.

It's OK if you all want to retain the dvsr. I'm sorry I picked on it, it's a wonderful device.


Edit...

Ok I just went out to my shop and looked at that dvsr. Despite it clearly saying "Digital" on it, it's not a diode or mosfet switch, it does actually have a solenoid in it. So I was wrong in my assumption of it not passing cranking amperage, it would have. So FOR ME, I preferred to use a dedicated simple solenoid with no delays in it vs the dvsr. I mean at that point with lithium batteries, you're not using the voltage sensing functions of the dvsr anyway, you're just using it as a simple relay or solenoid.

For those doing a lithium battery swap, feel free to use the dvsr. But again, only after doing the red wire mod, which I seem to remember posting about myself like 8 years ago on here. You attacked my knowledge, but you may find I was the one years ago who was coming up with stuff like this and the Connex battery display issue. Maybe you should take a gander at my ancient post history...

Post I made on here from 2017 when I figured out the Connex voltage issue myself. It had been figured out before me but I didn't know it. My fix ended up being much easier than what was previously found...

Next was figuring out why the Connext display wasn't reading both batteries. I had an idea of how they would wire the display, I expected they took one of the voltages internally and the other had to come in by a separate sense wire. I found a small gauge red wire hooked to the battery isolators and disconnected it. YES! One of the voltages stopped reading. It was hooked to the same battery as the display itself was hooked to, the house battery. Idiots! I hooked that sense wire to the starter battery and guess what? The Connext display now reads both batteries. Amazing. haha. Not really. Just another example of the shoddy workmanship at the dealer prep level and also the boat assembly level. Pretty disappointing.

So if your Connext display doesn't read both batteries, simply move the little red wire from the house battery to the starter battery.

The Connext display will read the house battery as "System" since that's what it's getting it's power from. The starter battery will be the "Auxiliary" battery voltage.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Why are you defending the dvsr so much? Are you a dvsr salesman? hahahahaha.

It's OK if you all want to retain the dvsr. I'm sorry I picked on it, it's a wonderful device.


Edit...

Ok I just went out to my shop and looked at that dvsr. Despite it clearly saying "Digital" on it, it's not a diode or mosfet switch, it does actually have a solenoid in it. So I was wrong in my assumption of it not passing cranking amperage, it would have. So FOR ME, I preferred to use a dedicated simple solenoid with no delays in it vs the dvsr. I mean at that point with lithium batteries, you're not using the voltage sensing functions of the dvsr anyway, you're just using it as a simple relay or solenoid.

For those doing a lithium battery swap, feel free to use the dvsr. But again, only after doing the red wire mod, which I seem to remember posting about myself like 8 years ago on here. You attacked my knowledge, but you may find I was the one years ago who was coming up with stuff like this and the Connex battery display issue. Maybe you should take a gander at my ancient post history...

Post I made on here from 2017 when I figured out the Connex voltage issue myself. It had been figured out before me but I didn't know it. My fix ended up being much easier than what was previously found...

Next was figuring out why the Connext display wasn't reading both batteries. I had an idea of how they would wire the display, I expected they took one of the voltages internally and the other had to come in by a separate sense wire. I found a small gauge red wire hooked to the battery isolators and disconnected it. YES! One of the voltages stopped reading. It was hooked to the same battery as the display itself was hooked to, the house battery. Idiots! I hooked that sense wire to the starter battery and guess what? The Connext display now reads both batteries. Amazing. haha. Not really. Just another example of the shoddy workmanship at the dealer prep level and also the boat assembly level. Pretty disappointing.

So if your Connext display doesn't read both batteries, simply move the little red wire from the house battery to the starter battery.

The Connext display will read the house battery as "System" since that's what it's getting it's power from. The starter battery will be the "Auxiliary" battery voltage.

Didn’t attack your knowledge, just making sure others who read your post knew what the facts were. I think “digital” must be in reference to the control circuitry, sure would be nice if there was some way to adjust the pick up and drop out voltage then the red wire mod would not be necessary.. as it stands I have mine wired to a rocker switch.

I am somewhat familiar with your older posts, at least the ones regarding riva’s re flash parameters, how little they actually did to affect power, and especially for the price. I used the information your posts as the basis to try and help others.. in fact, I wrote you a direct message about that stuff a couple of years ago and I never heard back from you.

The connext voltage is really kind of interesting.. I found that early on when I double those voltage readings with my fluke meter, thing only think I can come up with was the zenier diode being the culprit?