The official "What did you do to your jet boat today" thread.

[Madman]

Okay…seems odd. Perhaps try centering the wheel and split the throttles ? Unless it’s super windy that’s the way I drive my boat around the dock or when loading it on the trailer.

I hear you. That’s pretty much the way I drove my old boat, but as I approach the trailer, I inevitably have to make a final adjustment and that’s when the fun starts! Left is right, right is left and Bob’s your uncle. I also want to take full advantage of Drive system, which I bought so my daughter can use the boat. Just gotta figure out how to turn that off and how to quit sucking up shit!

 

[Madman]

I got to use the Ramp-n-Clamp for the first time today. Had to go deeper than normal to float the boat off the trailer to relieve the pressure on the latch before it would release, but it was only slightly deeper than a normal launch, so no big deal. Pulled the rope and the boat floated back away from the trailer nicely.

When retrieving/loading back on the trailer, I had the wife back slightly deeper than normal again. I used the X-drive paddles to slowly approach and center up on the trailer. When the bow hit the pad on the Ramp-n-Clamp I heard the latch click around the eye. I was a little apprehensive to give my wife the thumbs up to pull away from the ramp, so I checked first to make sure it was latched. It worked exactly like it should. Next time it’ll be just a click and a thumbs up and we’re off the ramp and out of the way.

Very pleased with it. And highly recommend it.

Thanks for the follow up. I had the Grabber (?) on my ‘10 242. It had an electronic latch with a remote so you could reset or release the latch from the helm. It was well made, but just didn’t work well with our boat due to the step in the hull. I ended up taking it off and just reaching over the bow to connect and disconnect the strap. As you probably know, the bow eye is a bit to further down on the new boats, so I installed bow steps. I thought the urethane cover on the Grabber might have been a little too soft, causing extra friction with the hull when loading and leaving residue on boat.

 

[Ed255fsh]

Installed xm weather for the Nsx.
Works awesome. Was able to track and avoid Tstorm cells on gps chart. I recommend for gulf boaters.
Sorry no pictures.

 

[F.M.]

Thanks for the follow up. I had the Grabber (?) on my ‘10 242. It had an electronic latch with a remote so you reset or release the latch from the helm. It was well made, but just didn’t work well with our boat due to the step in the hull. I ended up taking it off and just reaching over the bow to connect and disconnect the strap. As you probably know, the bow eye is a bit to further down on the new boats, so I installed bow steps. I thought the urethane cover on the Grabber might have been a little too soft, causing extra friction with the hull when loading and leaving residue on boat.

I was a little hesitant to purchase and try because of the step in the hull. I was worried it might not latch/unlatch as easily as it should, but the step isn’t big enough to worry about. As long as you go deep enough to float the boat when launching, it takes minimal effort to release it.

 

[drewkaree]

I hear you. That’s pretty much the way I drove my old boat, but as I approach the trailer, I inevitably have to make a final adjustment and that’s when the fun starts! Left is right, right is left and Bob’s your uncle. I also want to take full advantage of Drive system, which I bought so my daughter can use the boat. Just gotta figure out how to turn that off and how to quit sucking up shit!

Gotta check the manual of a friend's boat. They have a '23, and I recall having issues trying to spin his boat at my pier, which is second nature. I feel like I could do it blindfolded now, but I just couldn't get square to the dock in his boat

 

[Madman]

Gotta check the manual of a friend's boat. They have a '23, and I recall having issues trying to spin his boat at my pier, which is second nature. I feel like I could do it blindfolded now, but I just couldn't get square to the dock in his boat

I haven’t checked the manuals for the older boats. My manual has one sentence on page 98 that just describes how to turn the feature on/off. Nothing in the manual even explains what the feature does, I learned about it through this forum. Cleaned the ports out again yesterday, so heading back out today and we’ll what happens.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I haven’t checked the manuals for the older boats. My manual has one sentence on page 98 that just describes how to turn the feature on/off. Nothing in the manual even explains what the feature does, I learned about it through this forum. Cleaned the ports out again yesterday, so heading back out today and we’ll what happens.

At least you can turn it off! Keep us posted on your journey today! Good luck!

 

[arice3421]

Fuel gauge and rpms now working:

 

[Madman]

At least you can turn it off! Keep us posted on your journey today! Good luck!

Actually, I can’t turn it off. For some reason the switch isn’t working. I believe it’s a software problem, but can’t be sure. On a positive note, I managed to enjoy our day on the water without plugging up my pumps! So that’s a win!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Actually, I can’t turn it off. For some reason the switch isn’t working. I believe it’s a software problem, but can’t be sure. On a positive note, I managed to enjoy our day on the water without plugging up my pumps! So that’s a win!

Indeed! Glad you had a successful outing! I forwarded the info you posted to a friend who has the same boat, maybe he can see what his boat does.

 

[drewkaree]

Yes, it’s called neutral steering assist. When shifting into neutral, the steering response is reversed. If I turn the wheel right, the front swings to the left and vice versa. When in forward or reverse, the boat reacts as expected. So it can get a little intense when you’re shifting in and of out of neutral. At first I thought the issue was exclusive to the Drive system, but I learned it behaves the same way in normal mode too, it’s just more noticeable during low speed maneuvers.

Is this when using the paddles, or with any method (throttle, paddles, something)?

I may be "tech support" for a new owner, but I ALSO may be bowing OUT of the tech support role, given that I don't have this addition, and don't need to add more thoughts and confusion in my own head - especially if he's not gonna look into this himself

 

[Madman]

Is this when using the paddles, or with any method (throttle, paddles, something)?

I may be "tech support" for a new owner, but I ALSO may be bowing OUT of the tech support role, given that I don't have this addition, and don't need to add more thoughts and confusion in my own head - especially if he's not gonna look into this himself

I originally thought it was due to DRIVE (with paddles), but later realized the issue presents itself anytime you move in and out of neutral. It is more pronounced in DRIVE mode. I appreciate your point that it gets confusing when you haven’t experienced it for yourself, so I’m more than willing to take help others. I’d suggest he post his comment to DRIVE Neutral Steering Assist - 2024 and newer and report the problem to his dealer. That’s the only way to bring attention to this problem.

I’m not sure there is a solution here, but I want to create awareness. I’ve read through part of the service manual today and am thinking this is a 2 prong problem. 1) being the inability to turn it off and 2) I’m convinced the system isn’t working as intended.

I’m also trying to find out who else has encountered this and have they found a solution. DRIVE was to supposed to make things easier, and at a significant up charge, so I’m not overly interested in work arounds.

 

[suke]

View attachment 237242
Fuel gauge and rpms now working:

WOAH! That's awesome! How are you translating the signal since yamaha like to use some proprietary crap for their boats?

 

[arice3421]

WOAH! That's awesome! How are you translating the signal since yamaha like to use some proprietary crap for their boats?

I have tapped into the signal wire that goes to the current tachometer. That signal is a pulse that engine sends. The pulse happens 2 times ever revolution of the engine so I have it going into my IO and just calculating it based on the 2 PPR.

 

[loanerdave]

Just got our 2020 AR 240 three months ago and I’m so happy to be back in the boating community after 15 long years! I’ve already done a number of things including Cobra Steering (big shout out to Jeff!), new tongue jack and guides on the trailer, boat name, and a few little repairs after a rough July 4th week at Lake Havasu.

One of those was a loose cleat on the starboard bow. I managed to somehow get completely in the bow storage, laying flat on my back, and reach up to feel that one of the nuts and both washers had somehow fallen into the abyss. Let me tell you that it’s not easy to find a stainless steel 7/8 nut along with standard washer and inner tooth lock washer!

So today I went to a very specialized hardware store in my area and was lucky enough to at least find a stainless 7/8 nut. They didn’t have any stainless steel washers this size so I had to compromise. I assume this lock washer and regular washer will be fine, right? I mean, if it starts rusting, it’s not like I ever want it to come off anyway.

The original hardware is on the left and the new hardware is on the right. Should be fine, yeah?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Just got our 2020 AR 240 three months ago and I’m so happy to be back in the boating community after 15 long years! I’ve already done a number of things including Cobra Steering (big shout out to Jeff!), new tongue jack and guides on the trailer, boat name, and a few little repairs after a rough July 4th week at Lake Havasu.

One of those was a loose cleat on the starboard bow. I managed to somehow get completely in the bow storage, laying flat on my back, and reach up to feel that one of the nuts and both washers had somehow fallen into the abyss. Let me tell you that it’s not easy to find a stainless steel 7/8 nut along with standard washer and inner tooth lock washer!

So today I went to a very specialized hardware store in my area and was lucky enough to at least find a stainless 7/8 nut. They didn’t have any stainless steel washers this size so I had to compromise. I assume this lock washer and regular washer will be fine, right? I mean, if it starts rusting, it’s not like I ever want it to come off anyway.

The original hardware is on the left and the new hardware is on the right. Should be fine, yeah?View attachment 237374

Go online and get stainless hardware… maybe try Fastenal, McMaster Carr or Grainger

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Replaced the original Goodyear Endurance tires with a new set of Goodyear Endurance tires yesterday.. the originals still had decent tread with the exception of the right rear which had more wear.. the right rear in my experience always wears more, not bad for 35,000 miles, I should have been paying more attention and rotated them. The tires were five years old, so it was time for a new set before I hit the road to WI this year. $1050 out the door at Discount Tire with their road hazard warranty on them, tires were made in week 16 of 2025, checking the date code on trailer tires at the time of purchase is important.. lesser tire shops will try and sell you tires that are old.

 

[loanerdave]

Go online and get stainless hardware… maybe try Fastenal, McMaster Carr or Grainger

For this application (hardware inside the dry hull and boat is fresh water only) is it that important? Genuinely asking.

 

[loanerdave]

checking the date code on trailer tires at the time of purchase is important.. lesser tire shops will try and sell you tires that are old.

Great point!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

For this application (hardware inside the dry hull and boat is fresh water only) is it that important? Genuinely asking.

Yes. It’ll get damp in the hull and it will rust.