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Tow valves on newer 1.8 boats

txav8r

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Getting enough room between hose clamps to find a place to clamp it off is the issue on some models. On my 240, I would have to get inside the clean out tray to clamp the hose, and I don't have that picture for you, but this is right inside the wall of the engine compartment and shows the two areas. I tested this on my 230 in the lower circle and it works. I have not tested it in the 240, which is your engine, but I would just place this on the hose under the clean out tray...provided I could reach it. You can verify the hose by finding this in your engine compartment and looking for the hose that passes through that wall under the tray.
cooling hose Y.jpg
 

10-8

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Getting enough room between hose clamps to find a place to clamp it off is the issue on some models. On my 240, I would have to get inside the clean out tray to clamp the hose, and I don't have that picture for you, but this is right inside the wall of the engine compartment and shows the two areas. I tested this on my 230 in the lower circle and it works. I have not tested it in the 240, which is your engine, but I would just place this on the hose under the clean out tray...provided I could reach it. You can verify the hose by finding this in your engine compartment and looking for the hose that passes through that wall under the tray.
View attachment 6967
Just below the bottom area you have circled the line splits in to 2 with one going up to the exhaust and the other leading to the front. Where does the one going forward go and isn't the one going to the exhaust the one that could cause the damage? If so, can it be clamped easier? Thanks..
 

txav8r

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You want to stop all the water circulating through the engine...not just that particular hose to the exhaust. Because it recirculates and enters the exhaust again from above that area.
Screen Shot 2014-06-10 at 8.51.44 AM.png
 

10-8

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You want to stop all the water circulating through the engine...not just that particular hose to the exhaust. Because it recirculates and enters the exhaust again from above that area.
View attachment 6968
Yep, I can see it now in that diagram. Wasn't sure where that forward hose was leading. Thanks!
 

txav8r

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The 1.8L engines have a simplified routing vs the MR-1 engine and the first indicator is only 1 pee hole per engine instead of 2.
 

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Is this the hose on the SX 190, 1800 CL engine that needs to be clamped? Sorry for being slow here, but I am hoping to get the hose name, part #, etc. so I know precisely what to clamp. The description for part # 13 is "hose. The description for part # 14 is "tube". Very helpful in my book:) Hopefully my image made it onto this Post
 

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bucks448

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Is this the hose on the SX 190, 1800 CL engine that needs to be clamped? Sorry for being slow here, but I am hoping to get the hose name, part #, etc. so I know precisely what to clamp. The description for part # 13 is "hose. The description for part # 14 is "tube". Very helpful in my book:) Hopefully my image made it onto this Post
In the diagram you posted, you want to clamp either part #9 or part #1.
 

jollyroger

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Thanks folks, appreciate the info. I will be Clamping as instructed.
 

steined

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Getting enough room between hose clamps to find a place to clamp it off is the issue on some models. On my 240, I would have to get inside the clean out tray to clamp the hose, and I don't have that picture for you, but this is right inside the wall of the engine compartment and shows the two areas. I tested this on my 230 in the lower circle and it works. I have not tested it in the 240, which is your engine, but I would just place this on the hose under the clean out tray...provided I could reach it. You can verify the hose by finding this in your engine compartment and looking for the hose that passes through that wall under the tray.
View attachment 6967
Wow!! Look at all that room!!! That would have made my bilge install so much easier! The CARB boats are much more cramped back there and you can't see the driveshaft at all.
 

tdonoughue

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@steined , looks like it might be time for a new boat....

:woot:
 

beachbum

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@jollyrogger... thanks for digging in on the particulars with the 190 as this is one emergency topic I hadn't fully grasped.
The input has been fantastic. ... now if I can get a tool to remove the "loom" on the cooling tube entry... then KNOW the clamp I have will shut it down.

I have been towed by Boat US and they would NOT want to go trolling speed.
 

adrianp89

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I thought the water comes back into through the exhaust... so that defeats the whole purpose of clamping the hose?
 

JetBoatPenguin

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This reminds me of the Ben Franklin quote...an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. As a new Yamaha boat owner I appreciate this thread. Now if I can get my 14 yr old son to remember the process to clamp or close the valve as well....we're all good.
 

tdonoughue

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If you figure out the solution with the 14 yr old, be sure to post it. Probably get a medal for that...
 

JetBoatPenguin

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Here is what I came up with. I got 20' 5/8 automotive heater hose, (2) 5/8 barbed hose splices, and (2) 1/2 threaded brass ball valves with 5/8 threaded hose barb adapters. I extended the hose from the pumps to the front of the engine bay and put the valves there in easy reach. Then I ran hose back to the flush y. Did not cut the stock hoses so they will go back together if needed. Kept all the hoses low so the engines will still drain out of the pump screen.View attachment 3120View attachment 3121View attachment 3122View attachment 3123View attachment 3124View attachment 3126
Paul075. I am thinking of something similar to yours. Instead of taking the hose around the engines to place the shut-off valve in the front of the engine compartment do you think it would work to do a circular loop with flexible radiator hose with the shut-off valve on the top? It creates a circular loop ...like an airplane doing a loop. Maybe 6" of flexible hose on each side of the shut-off valve. The idea is:

* It's shorter - so less resistance.
* It raises the shut-off valve higher in back of the engine compartment so it's easier to get to when the engines are hot.
* It would connect to the existing hoses so it could be reconnected back to the original state.
* Install doesn't require messing around with the starboard hoses in the tray area.

It would be like yours..in concept.

I think the key is the flexible radiator hose. Probably stainless.

What are your thoughts?
 

MidnightRider

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Paul075. I am thinking of something similar to yours. Instead of taking the hose around the engines to place the shut-off valve in the front of the engine compartment do you think it would work to do a circular loop with flexible radiator hose with the shut-off valve on the top? It creates a circular loop ...like an airplane doing a loop. Maybe 6" of flexible hose on each side of the shut-off valve. The idea is:

* It's shorter - so less resistance.
* It raises the shut-off valve higher in back of the engine compartment so it's easier to get to when the engines are hot.
* It would connect to the existing hoses so it could be reconnected back to the original state.
* Install doesn't require messing around with the starboard hoses in the tray area.

It would be like yours..in concept.

I think the key is the flexible radiator hose. Probably stainless.

What are your thoughts?
Haven't thought through this but what I immediately wonder is what these looping solutions do to the "self draining" capacity of these self draining engines.
 

swatski

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Haven't thought through this but what I immediately wonder is what these looping solutions do to the "self draining" capacity of these self draining engines.
I agree. Not to mention, if you want to use the boat in colder climates (longer season that these boats afford) need to be mindful of cooling water possibly freezing in a hose...

(Don’t ask how I know! Lol)

 

Shookie

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Sucked up 2 ropes last year and idled back to my marina. One time was well over 90 minutes because I was miles away.... This mod is definitely on my to do list this year.
 
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