Tow valves on newer 1.8 boats

[paul075]

If the engine is not running and sucking water up, how would the engine hydro lock? Sorry, this is my first jet boat, coming from an I/O, so I'm trying to figure all this stuff out before I take ownership of the new boat.

The theory is that the pressure from the water moving through the pump at speed even with the impeller not turning could force water through the cooling system filling the exhaust to the point that the water flows back through the open exhaust valve(s) and floods a cylinder. Personally I think this would be very hard to do with the open end water box(muffler), thermostat bypass holes, and stationary impeller blocking most of the water flowing through the pump. Not to say it is impossible, but probably more likely on the flushing hose with a lot of pressure.

 

[xoomer]

I went to check out how hard it would be to install the two valves today. Taking the screws out of the clean out tray top was fairly fast but breaking the seal on the silicone holding it in was more time consuming. One other thing you have to do is disconnect the hose in the front-center of the tray from the plastic fitting on top--just loosen the clamp under the tray and pull off the hose.

It's a little confusing when looking at all the hoses in there but I finally found the ones I need to cut (I hope). The port side isn't really a problem but it appears it needs to be cut towards the back. The starboard side is another question. The starboard side is very difficult to get to with all the hoses and tubes going on top of the hose you want to cut. In fact, I'm not sure I can install the starboard tow valve without dismantling some of these items--something I would rather not do.

I put the tray back in place to see if I could reach the valves once they were installed and it appeared I could although my arm went almost all the way up to my shoulder. The port side wasn't really a problem but because of everything over the starboard hose it was more difficult, but not impossible to reach. I took a couple of pictures to show what I encountered:

Port Side:



Starboard Side:


I need to get the valves installed so I will go back in a couple of days to complete the project. I don't see a problem with the port side but I know the starboard side is going to cause some problems.

 

[steined]

I'm thinking the solenoid valves might be your best bet! Maybe I'll look into this some more. If only the weather would cooperate! Wouldn't be too hard to create a VERY simple control for the valves. Could be as simple as a switch and (marine safe) relay. Would likely want to find a "marine safe" relay as well as a non exposed contact solenoid valve as well to limit spark for potential fuel vapor issues. I realize our boats are EFI and mine even has EVAP ("thank you" CARB), but if anything ever went wrong....

 

[steined]

http://www.circle-seal.com/products/atkomatic_valves/index.html - NEMA 7 or 9 explosion proof run around $50+ a piece. Plus relays + switches and fuses or circuit breakers.

 

[jawsf16]

Nice pics @xoomer

 

[xoomer]

I'm sort of reconsidering now--maybe will install them in the engine compartment--might be easier. Also, thinking about using some sort of tool, like a water meter shut off tool, to turn the valves on and off if in the engine compartment--just a thought at this moment. I don't want to get it more complicated than just a simple valve.





Hose to cut is directly under the bottom of the red hoses in the pictures:

Starboard side:





Both hoses:

 

[xoomer]

After looking at the pictures again it appears I could install the port valve under the clean out tray and the starboard valve in the engine compartment--that would be the easiest. I'll have to think about that one...

 

[tdonoughue]

When I did mine under the clean out tray, it was definitely more difficult on one side than the other. For the install I undid the muffler... But I can reach down there and activate the valve. Yes, you have to reach far. But I figure the rarity with which I hope to use them means that is ok in my book.

 

[xoomer]

But I figure the rarity with which I hope to use them means that is ok in my book.

It's a little different for me--I boat in salt water and want to be able to flush the engines while still in the water every time I come back to the dock so I won't have to rely on the workers at the marina to do the flushing. I don't mind a bit harder installation if necessary, I'm mainly interested in the ease of using the valves--that's still the question I'm trying to figure out.

 

[steined]

Wow. I'm not sure us CARB boat guys are gong to be able to reach that hose in the engine compartment! There is a whole assembly of power robbing stuff on top of the driveshaft there that would make that even more difficult! Hopefully I'm wrong though! Gotta be able to get to it somehow in an emergency!! Maybe I should get the boat out of storage, an awful lot of projects seem to be piling up!

 

[paul075]

I'm sort of reconsidering now--maybe will install them in the engine compartment--might be easier. Also, thinking about using some sort of tool, like a water meter shut off tool, to turn the valves on and off if in the engine compartment--just a thought at this moment. I don't want to get it more complicated than just a simple valve.

View attachment 2508



Hose to cut is directly under the bottom of the red hoses in the pictures:

Starboard side:

View attachment 2506



Both hoses:

View attachment 2507

I was think of removing the hose from the rear of the y and moving the flush hose y and the tee fitting closer to the engine by cutting a short 2"piece of hose off in front of the tee and installing it between the y and tow valve. But I still think if you are going to use the each time you should go with the solenoid valves under the clean out tray. with a switch to operate them.

 

[paul075]

Here is what I came up with. I got 20' 5/8 automotive heater hose, (2) 5/8 barbed hose splices, and (2) 1/2 threaded brass ball valves with 5/8 threaded hose barb adapters. I extended the hose from the pumps to the front of the engine bay and put the valves there in easy reach. Then I ran hose back to the flush y. Did not cut the stock hoses so they will go back together if needed. Kept all the hoses low so the engines will still drain out of the pump screen.

 

[xoomer]

Here is what I came up with. I got 20' 5/8 automotive heater hose, (2) 5/8 barbed hose splices, and (2) 1/2 threaded brass ball valves with 5/8 threaded hose barb adapters. I extended the hose from the pumps to the front of the engine bay and put the valves there in easy reach. Then I ran hose back to the flush y. Did not cut the stock hoses so they will go back together if needed. Kept all the hoses low so the engines will still drain out of the pump screen.View attachment 3120 View attachment 3121 View attachment 3122 View attachment 3123 View attachment 3124 View attachment 3126

@paul075 So you basically just made a big circle around the engines with the new hoses and put the valves in the front? I like that idea--I was about to give up since I couldn't think of a way to make it work--WTG...

 

[dan144k]

How does the tee to the exhaust effect salt water flushing and winterizing with antifreeze. I understand everybody is trying to block off the pump pressure while towing. Are people concerned about the salt away and antifreeze going to exhaust water-box rather than going thru engine and out pee holes.

When I flush with antifreeze most off it goes under boat thru the exhaust, I am sure some goes into motor but not enough to spray out pee holes. I know we don't have to winterize, but I live in Chicago and would rather be on the cautious side.

I have thought if it might would be worth redoing the plumbing some. Moving the flush ports closer to motors. Installing emergency block off ball valve to isolate pump and exhaust.

 

[paul075]

@paul075 So you basically just made a big circle around the engines with the new hoses and put the valves in the front? I like that idea--I was about to give up since I couldn't think of a way to make it work--WTG...

Exactly . All parts where bought at Lowes. Just make sure you keep the new hoses low so the engine will still drain.

 

[paul075]

How does the tee to the exhaust effect salt water flushing and winterizing with antifreeze. I understand everybody is trying to block off the pump pressure while towing. Are people concerned about the salt away and antifreeze going to exhaust water-box rather than going thru engine and out pee holes.

When I flush with antifreeze most off it goes under boat thru the exhaust, I am sure some goes into motor but not enough to spray out pee holes. I know we don't have to winterize, but I live in Chicago and would rather be on the cautious side.

I have thought if it might would be worth redoing the plumbing some. Moving the flush ports closer to motors. Installing emergency block off ball valve to isolate pump and exhaust.

You want antifreeze in the exhausts. You cannot get all the water out of the water boxes no matter how hard you rev the engines. The pee holes in my boat come off the top of the exhaust manifolds( pretty sure that the 1.8's are the same) and show that water is cooling the exhaust. AS long as you warm the boat until the thermostats open you will get antifreeze throughout the block. I can run both engines at no wake mode speed on one hose with the tow valves closed and not overheat. I think most of the water loss is through the pump screen. The thermostat discharges are producing a force full stream of water at temp. I think if if put antifreeze in it it would fill the engine and most would drain out if the tow valves were open to let the water out of the intake screen. Here's a good video to watch. Not a 1.8 but similar principle.

 

[Gym]

@paul075 just make sure to leave your valves in the open position. The pics show them closed.

 

[paul075]

@paul075 just make sure to leave your valves in the open position. The pics show them closed.

I have them closed so I can flush the engines without loosing water out of the pumps. I open them when I'm done

 

[xoomer]

Well, I finally got both tow valves installed after quite an ordeal. On the starboard side I removed the black intake hose from the back of the "y" and installed a brass burred fitting in that hose and then connected the other end of the burred fitting to an 8' hose that I ran under the engine and back to the "y" fitting--like paul075 did. The new hose looped at the front of the engine so I cut it there and installed an Island Racing "tow valve". The main thing that caused me a problem was that I couldn't get the spring clamp off the intake hose--I must have spent two hours trying different tools until I finally managed to get it off.




I had so much trouble with that clamp that I bought a tool with a flexible extension to reach the spring clamp on the port side but it wouldn't do the job. After struggling with the port side clamp for an hour I removed the red flushing hose on the "y" and cut the black intake hose just before it was connected to the back of the "y". Once I did this I was able to wiggle off the spring clamp from the "y" without too much trouble.

Now I had the black intake hose just laying on the bottom of the boat under the clean out tray so it was much easier to work with. I installed a burred fitting in this hose, then laid out the looped hose in the engine compartment, going around the engine on one side, and was able to connect the new hose to the burred fitting and the other end to the back of the "y" without much of a problem. Then reconnected the red flushing hose back to the "y" and installed the Island Racing kit in the front of the looped hose.



The whole process took me several hours because I couldn't get the spring clamps off the intake hoses and the difficulty of working while lying down on top of the engines. If I were to do this again I would remove the red flushing hoses and cut the intake hoses behind the "y"s instead of trying to get the spring clamps off. Also, getting the burred fitting into the original intake hose was so difficult I had to wet the hose with some Deep Creep to be able to push it in. The fitting wasn't a problem with the new hoses, and the new hoses easily connected to the "y"s. The only other issue I had, which was minor, was that the clamps supplied by Island Racing were a bit too small to easily fit over the 5/8" inch hose I was installing. I had some larger clamps with me so instead of fighting with the smaller clamps I used the larger ones.

I'm glad this is done but if anyone wants me to install the tow valves on their boat it will be $1000, per engine.

 

[Kevin107]

Do you guys think this will work? Or at least temporary?
http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/OEM-Hose-pinchers/_/N-26on?id=191675